THE WORL D’S O NLY CHAMPAGNE MAGA Z I N E No. 1 1 £ 2 5 • € 3 0 • U S $ 3 5 • C a n $ 3 5 • A u s $ 3 5 Lanson at Wimbledon • Spotlight Paris • Moët & Chandon Rosé • Aube • Champagne in Art • Patek Philippe 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pag n e s f o r 2 0 1 3
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Page 12 FINE Event Page 20 FINE City 8 Page 28 FINE 100 Best Champagnes for 2013 Page 64 FINE Glass Page 66 FINE Juhlin Page 72 FINE Event
Page 86 FINE Discovering Champagne FINE Destination F i n e C o n t e n t s 11 12 20 Page 100 FINE Lifestyle Fine City Spotlight Paris Fine 100 Best 100 Best Champagnes for 2013 Champagnes 58 Editor’s Pick Favourite Destinations in Champagne 64 Fine Glass The Perfect Glass for Champagne 66 Fine Juhlin Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 72 Fine Event Lanson at Wimbledon 76 Fine Discovering Aube Champagne 86 Fine Destination Istanbul: Slow Soul on the Bosphorus 110 FINE Gallery Fine Event Moët & Chandon – a Century of Rosés 28 100 Page 110 Fine Avellan Editorial Fine Lifestyle Patek Philippe Timeless Timepieces Fine Gallery Champagne in Art Fi n e C o n t e n t s Page 76 9
In 2010 the title was given to Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV, in 2011 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, and in 2012 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000. We will also give an inside profile of Charles Heidsieck as well as its reputable winemaker Régis Camus. where cellar master Benoît Gouez opens for us the oldest existing bottle of rosé champagne, the recently discovered Rosé Imperial Vintage 1878. This year offers a tribute to the Vintage champagne category, as the winner of great value and class outdid a long list of outstanding prestige cuvées. Champagne’s close ties with the winning moments in life is celebrated at Wimbledon, where Lanson is the toast of the glorious event for the 25th year in a row. This we will discover at Moët & Chandon, Essi Avellan Essi Avellan MW Editor Fi n e E d i t o r i a l Editorial 11. Furthermore, we will cherish champagne in art as well as the best spots to enjoy a glass of bubbly in the most romantic city in the world, Paris. You can read all about the ranking including tasting notes as well as various exciting TOP 10 lists later on in the magazine. It is a list of 100 excellent purchases, but still there can only be one winner. We proudly present our winner for 2013, Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000. A s the harvest is on its way in Champagne it is time to bring you our list of 100 Best Champagnes for 2013. A toast to our spectacular winning champagne, Charles Heidsieck 2000! But Champagne is not just about the latest vintages, but a drink of great historical heritage, pedigree and longevity
12 Moët & Chandon – A Century of Rosés Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Moët & Chandon, Andreas Achmann, Philippe Eranian M y next two days, themed a ”Century of Rosés” with Moët & Chandon, will prove some old myths wrong. A widely spread misconception is that rosé champagne does not age as well as blanc, but I am going to get a lesson in its capabilities, as Moët & Chandon has revealed in their invitation that we will be opening what is supposedly the oldest existing bottle of rosé champagne.
But Benoît Gouez has reserved us a surprise and serves Rilly-la-Montagne 1928 and 1929 red wines for our cheese dish of OssauIraty. For instance, the current 2004 vintage has as much as 22 per cent red wine. 13 Benoît Gouez Red wines in Champagne The 2004 is followed by a beautiful pair of mature vintages of Grand Vintage Collection Rosé, the 1983 and 1985. Fi n e E v e n t I advance through the spacious lobby of the renowned Paris hotel Le Bristol, on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, to reach my destination, the hotel’s celebrated, three Michelin-star restaurant, Epicure. While we indulge in the combination, Gouez explains why rosé making is so challenging. “It is essential to achieve wines with round, ripe tannins and that is far from easy in Champagne. In fact, not much is even made, as most of the quality wine is used for the rosé champagne. As we savour the first course at the dinner table, the relaxed and amicable cellar master explains their rosé philosophy to us. Chef Frechon’s flamboyantly served signature dish of Bresse chicken and black truffles then again matches perfectly with the 1995 and 1990 of the same wine in magnum. The 2004 feels vinous and vivacious at the same time, marrying well with the finetuned oriental flavours. “The rosé at Moët & Chandon is not the same as the blanc version with added red wine, but a cuvée of its own.” The Moët rosé style is fruit driven, vinous and supple with intensity both in colour and flavour. “The first official Brut Impérial Vintage Rosés were made in 1920 and 1921 and launched in 1929”, begins the house’s young, highly respected cellar master Benoît Gouez. The launch of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2004, the 39th vintage of pink Moët, brings myself and an international group of colleagues here tonight. “In fact, we have archives at the house that prove that, for instance, Napoleon Bonaparte himself ordered 100 bottles of Moët ’rozé’ in 1801!” Our aperitif and the first course, tandoori-cooked frog legs, are accompanied by the new vintage of Grand Vintage Rosé. In fact, we make 30 per cent more volume than needed to have margin to select the best red wines for blending in Grand Vintage Rosé.” Red wine in Champagne, or Coteaux Champenois, is not rated high compared to the great Pinot Noirs of the world. “But rosé goes much further than this at Moët, as you will find out tomorrow”, he hints to tomorrow’s mysterious bottle in reference. The hallmark style is accomplished in the Grand Vintage Rosé by using a high percentage of Pinot Noir red wines that have been only lightly extracted. It is not up to the greatest Burgundy’s of the era but interesting nevertheless, and these are rare treats that make us wait eagerly for the next day’s tasting.. What awaits me is a dinner cooked by its famously talented chef Eric Frechon, with every dish to be matched with Moët & Chandon rosés
Next we learn that our agenda for the day is to go back in history tasting Grand Vintage Rosés, or rather Rosé Imperial Vintages (as they were called prior to the 2000 vintage), alongside a collection of old vintages of still red wines from Bouzy. Perhaps noticeable to many, the sugar levels in Moët cuvées have come down significantly since Gouez took over as the cellar master in 2005. Here we first “warm up” with a few vins clairs of the previous harvest before reminding ourselves of Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial NV and Grand Vintage Rosé 2004. “I remember the depressingly rainy summer, but miraculously the rain stopped just in time for the harvest and we went on to have cool, dry and sunny weather for three weeks.” Next in line is the 1990 Bouzy Rouge, originally vinified. The cellar master states a non-oxidative style to be the essence of Moët & Chandon, which is attained by vinification in stainless steel and full malolactic fermentation both of which contribute to the soft style. “When I started, the non-vintages were dosed at around 13g/l and now we are at 9g/l.” With the vintage champagnes he has gone even lower, with the Grand Vintage Rosé now coming at a 5g/l dosage. Opposedly to the Grand Vintage Rosé, for the non-vintage Gouez also uses some thermovinified Pinot Meunier red wine for achieving a delicious and approachable fruit-forward character. We start off with Rosé Impérial 1998, the very first vintage of Benoît Gouez in Champagne. We make our way instantly to the atmospheric, historical board room, located on the second floor. In order to see the effect of the dosage, Gouez also has an undosed bottle of 2004 opened for us, which makes admiring the perfectly dosed final version easy. 14 An unforeseen tasting In the morning our group heads to Épernay, the capital of Champagne, where Moët & Chandon has its cellars in a prime spot at the beginning of the avenue de Champagne
We have been asking around in Champagne and at least here nobody has claimed to have anything older than this in stock.” We eagerly look at one of Moët & Chandon’s sommeliers carefully opening the bottle. But it makes me appreciate the ageing capacity of champagne, including rosé champagne. Treating the fragile cork like a baby, he is able to pull it out. Drinking history Even though we get to taste beautiful vintages of Rosé Impérial, for instance the majestic 1961 and remarkably well preserved 1949, the audience understandably seems to be most fascinated about the Bouzy Rouges, as presumably none of us have tasted so many old vintages side by side. I am relieved to see the colour is clear, deep – and yes, with a browning rosé hue. When never moved from the cellars, if the cork holds these are neareternal bottles. “These wines were never sold, but a few hundred bottles were made just for curiosity and to be served at our guest facilities at Trianon or Château de Saran. “I think we can say it is a rosé” Gouez confirms relieved. 15. But next comes the number we have all been waiting for. Benoît Gouez reveals to us an even older bottle, in fact 50 years older. Coming with an array of tar and medicinal notes, the character of most is “big” but much more rustic than their noble friends’ in Burgundy. No pop nor even a hiss at opening but this is to be expected for a bottle of this age. But when I opened one of them, a badly leaked bottle, to my surprise it had a rosé hue! I propose we now open one of the two remaining bottles. “The analysis from the earlier opened bottle indicated it has 100,8 g/l sugar and 11,25 per cent alcohol at this stage,” Gouez reveals the figures. And, I can fairly safely say this wine will never enter through my lips again, as only one bottle remains at Moët cellars. The 1928 in particular opens up beautifully and outdoes previous night’s Rilly-la-Montagne of the same vintage by a mile. “This bottle is something I discovered in 2011 when I was going through our stocks. Many have drying tannins and fading fruitiness but a still character that evolves enticingly in the glass. As I see it, every bottle we take from the cellar need be replaced!” Gouez says. The habit has since been stopped but I recommenced it for the sake of future generations. There were three bottles identified as 1878 on my inventory but it was not specified that they were rosé and, as I have always been told that the first Vintage Rosé was from 1920, I presumed that they were white. What a way to finish the rosé celebration at Moët & Chandon! > Tasted Wines: 2004 Grand Vintage Rosé 1998 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1995 Grand Vintage Collection Rosé Magnum 1990 Grand Vintage Collection Rosé Magnum 1990 Bouzy Rouge 1985 Grand Vintage Collection Rosé 1983 Grand Vintage Collection Rosé 1980 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1976 Bouzy Rouge 1976 Rosé Impérial Vintage Magnum 1969 Bouzy Rouge Magnum 1961 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1959 Bouzy Rouge 1955 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1947 Bouzy Rouge 1949 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1929 Rilly-la-Montagne 1928 Bouzy Rouge 1928 Rilly-la-Montagne 1878 Rosé Impérial Vintage Points 89p 90p N/A 95p 88p 89p 92p 91p 91p N/A 90p 96p 90p 87p 87p 95p 83p 91p 80p 95p Fi n e E v e n t to make red base wine for Champagne from this warm vintage. The aroma is strong and raisiny, and sweet with chocolate, apricot and volatile notes. I have no guarantees, but if it is a rosé it is likely to be the oldest existing in the world. It is silencing to taste something so old and historical. I don’t think any of us privileged to be sharing it left a drop in the glass
To him it ended up to be a classic, elegant vintage. 89p Grand Vintage Rosé 2004 Colour: Medium-deep orangehued colour Nose: Rich with opulent Pinot aromas, cherry Palate: Vivacious, vinous without being heavy Ending: Long with suitably balanced dosage of 5g/l The word: Joie de vivre Buy or not: Buy When to drink: 2013–2025 Inside information: The 2004 has a lower amount of Pinot Noir than customary Or try this: Veuve Clicquot Rosé 2004 Final verdict: A fine, refreshing and playful vintage with ageing capacity 95p 16 Grand Vintage Collection Rosé Magnum 1990 Colour: Medium-deep orangehued salmon Nose: Beautifully toast-complexed, mature with coffee and cream, dried fruits Palate: Rich and velvety Ending: Long with fine concentration and balance The word: Impressive Buy or not: Yes When to drink: Now–2018 Inside information: This vintage has 47% Pinot Noir, 22% Meunier and 31% Chardonnay Or try this: Dom Pérignon Rosé 1990 Final verdict: Rich and concentrated without being heavy, beautiful coffee notes and drinking beautifully now. The final blend was 35% Pinot Noir, 22% Meunier, 43% Chardonnay. Or try this: Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 1998 Final verdict: A fine combination of aged characters and freshness 88p Bouzy Rouge 1990 Colour: Pale brown-hued Nose: Deep, strong, cherry, spicy, tar, medicinal Palate: Smooth and silky with very little tannin Ending: Short and robust The word: Beast Buy or not: Unlikely to be found as it has never been sold. The two last bottles from Moët cellars were opened in this tasting. 90p Rosé Impérial Vintage 1998 Colour: Developed onionskin, deep Nose: Opulent nose of developing berry flavours, spice, leather, toast, smoke, undergrowth Palate: Succulent and silky Ending: Long and full of fruit The word: The wild one Buy or not: No need to hesitate, at a great age for drinking When to drink: 2013–2020 Inside information: This was the current cellar master Benoît Gouez’s first vintage in Champagne, a depressingly rainly summer was followed by sunny harvest time weather. When to drink: Ready but will keep Inside information: This wine was made as a red base wine for rosé champagne but a few hundred bottles were vinified as Bouzy Rouge to be used at Château de Saran and Trianon. Final verdict: A characterful, edgy wine that improved in the glass Collection Rosé N/A Grand Vintage Magnum 1995 Colour: Deep orange-hued Nose: Rich but not completely clean Palate: Watery, hollow Final verdict: Either a mild cork taint or otherwise bad bottle, original disgorgement 89p Grand Vintage Collection Rosé 1985 Colour: Deep salmon with maturing onion skin hues Nose: Open, pretty and smoky with dried fruits, spice and gunpowder Palate: Fleshy yet elegant, slightly drying at the finish Ending: Started to faint soon The word: Mellow Buy or not: Yes When to drink: Now to 2015 Inside information: A small crop due to severe frosts during the growing season, 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay + red wine Or try this: Dom Ruinart Rosé from the same year Final verdict: This bottle, disgorged in 2006, started to loose life in the glass quickly 92p Grand Vintage Collection Rosé 1983 Colour: Deep, developing Nose: Rich nose with toffee and pastry Palate: Fine intensity and plenty of life left Ending: Long and fruity The word: Balance Buy or not: Yes When to drink: Now–2017 Inside information: A difficult year for the red wine due to wet conditions but a big crop Or try this: De Venoge Grand Vin des Princes 1983 Final verdict: An elegant wine still with intensity and freshness left, this bottle was disgorged in 1988
We had two very different bottles, the better one reaching 96 points the other 92p. Rosé Impérial Vintage 1980 Colour: Very deep, slightly hazy orange colour Nose: Soft, sweet and toasty Palate: Wide and fleshy with good acid backbone Ending: Medium-long and refreshing The word: Oldie but Goldie Buy or not: Yes When to drink: 2013–2018 Inside information: Bad weather at blossoming caused both coulure and millerandange and resulted in a small crop. This vintage was still bottled with the old style crown caps for tirage, which in part is responsible for the lesser ageing capacity of the wine despite fine acidity. This vintage was sealed for tirage with natural corks. Final verdict: Capable of greatness 95p Rosé Impérial Vintage 1949 Colour: Bright pale orange colour Nose: Mild, refined with peach and patisserie Palate: Fine mousse persisting Ending: Long and seamless The word: A beauty Buy or not: Do not hesitate When to drink: No longer improving Inside information: Ours was a perfect bottle, it is likely most are more developed than this Final verdict: An excellent, complete wine, mature but with a lot of charm N/A Rosé Impérial Vintage Magnum 1976 Colour: Hazy brown colour Nose: Oxidised Palate: Watery, hollow Final verdict: Gone 90p Bouzy Rouge 1959 Colour: Thin orange with brown tinge Nose: Deep, rustic with Nebbiolo-like tar and roses character with mushroomy and animally notes Palate: Soft, rich, muscular Ending: Long and fully alive but little austere The word: Charisma Buy or not: Unlikely to be found although 20 bottles remain at Moët cellars When to drink: No longer improving Inside information: Perfect summer conditions resulted in very ripe characters Final verdict: Fascinating aromatics and a big personality Fi n e E v e n t 91p 17 87p Rosé Impérial Vintage 1955 Colour: Fairly clear, orangehued Nose: Full of fresh mushroom notes and not much else Palate: Fresh, funky Inside information: The only two bottles remaining at Moët cellars were opened for this occasion, however both were highly mushroomy Final verdict: Out of condition. There are two more bottles remaining at Moët cellars. 55% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay Or try this: Veuve Clicquot Cave Privée 1980 Final verdict: A pleasant surprise 91p Colour: Medium-deep with brown hues Nose: Strong Pinot nose with medicinal characters, tar, pepper Palate: Voluminous and wide Ending: Persistent and powerful The word: Masculine Buy or not: Yes When to drink: No need to wait but not yet going down Food pairing: Powerful enough for refined red meat dishes Or try this: Replaces a recent Burgundy of the same vintage Final verdict: Excellent and so drinkable 96p 90p Bouzy Rouge Magnum 1969 Colour: Deep but bright browning colour with sediment at the bottom Nose: Powerful and reserved, some volatile notes Palate: Very dry with tannins Ending: Medium-long, concentrated but drying The word: Tough guy Buy or not: As a curiosity When to drink: In the next few years Inside information: A year of low yields, concentrated but hard Final verdict: Strong and unforgiving, give it time in the decanter 87p Bouzy Rouge 1947 Colour: A lot of sediment in the bottle, very pale orange-brown Nose: Strange, rich with tar and blood Palate: Wide yet light Ending: Medium-long The word: Controversial Buy or not: Not likely to be found When to drink: Past its peak Inside information: A small harvest Final verdict: Barely alive Bouzy Rouge 1976 Rosé Impérial Vintage 1961 Colour: Orange hued colour with light haziness Nose: Beautifully toasty, soft nose of sweet vanilla and toffee Palate: Smooth and round Ending: Long with fruitiness The word: Seductrice Buy or not: Beware of bottle condition When to drink: No longer improving Inside information: A difficult year with disease problems and weather hazards but despite them a good result was achieved
83p Rilly-la-Montagne 1929 Colour: Medium-deep brown Nose: More depth than in the 1928 Rilly, cherried Palate: Soft with fruit left Ending: Medium-long The word: Barely alive Buy or not: No When to drink: Now or never Final verdict: Still some life left but missing refinement of a great Burgundy of the same era 95p Rosé Impérial Vintage 1878 Colour: Clear, deep with a light brown tinge Nose: Strong, raisiny, sweet, apricot, chocolate Palate: Sweet and fully alive Ending: Persistent even with fruit left The word: Fascinating 18 Buy or not: Not to be found When to drink: This perfectly stored bottle was fully alive, no hurry for Moët to open the last remaining bottle Inside information: Technical analysis shows 100,8 g/l sugar and 11,25% alcohol by volume Or try this: Perrier-Jouët 1825, the oldest existing bottle of white Champagne Final verdict: Wow 91p Bouzy Rouge 1928 Colour: Strong, healthy browning colour Nose: Highly toasty with animally characters but also fruit persisting Palate: Fully alive but with rusticity and tannin Ending: Long but with noticeable tannin, opens and softens in the glass over time The word: Countryside cousin Buy or not: If only would be available When to drink: No signs of deterioration so can still be held on to Final verdict: Feels near-eternal The oldest existing rosé champagne 80p Rilly-la-Montagne 1928 Colour: Pale browning Nose: Powerful, aged, woody nose with farmyardy and medicinal notes Palate: Smooth with very little tannin Ending: Short The word: A curiosity Buy or not: Not available When to drink: Now Final verdict: Over the hill already with little fruit left but did open up and improve slightly in the glass
19 Fi n e E v e n t
E CH M PAG N A SPOTLIGHT 20 Le Dali Restaurant
Fi n e C i t y SPOTLIGHT 21 Text: Amanda Regan There is nobody who knows the bubbly scene in Paris as well as Amanda Regan, a Champagne and Burgundy specialist who moved from her native Australia to Paris for the love of French wine, art and culture. In Paris since 2002, she has discovered the best spots in town to enjoy Champagne, from five-star establishments to the grand attractions and all the way through to the cosy bars and elegant cafés. With her shortlist, a sparkly time in the most romantic city in the world is guaranteed.
SPOTLIGHT 22 Le Jules Verne vue Paris “Alain Ducasse wishes the Jules Verne to be the most beautiful place in Paris to enjoy the pleasure of a contemporary and accessible French kitchen”
Jules Verne The Michelin-starred restaurant on the second level of the Eiffel Tower is named after the author of “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea” and “Around the World in Eighty Days”. That is Paris. Illuminated by 20 000 lights, the Tower sparkles like a glass of Champagne every night. Winter is a magical time, when ephemeral Champagne bars by Perrier-Jouët and Bollinger pop up in fashion stores, Krug on top of construction sites, or Taittinger in a giant glass bubble in a courtyard on the Champs Elysées. Bar à Champagne Bar à Champagne CHAMPAGNE TOWERS The Eiffel Tower The Eiffel Tower is a world famous monument and the focal point of Paris. Looking at it from different perspectives, accompanied by a glass of Champagne, is always a new experience. This spotlight on Paris takes you to Champagne bars and restaurants with unforgettable views. Eugène Mercier famously transported his “Eiffel tower” of wines and “Cathedral of Champagne” by 24 oxen to the 1889 The World Fair in Paris. Access is by private lift into the restaurant from the ground only. Champagne was made famous in Paris by cabaret bar girls, painted by artists such as Toulouse Lautrec, and represented in publicity posters by Mucha. Even as a resident Parisian, I still get excited when I see the Eiffel Tower sparkle every night. It is a living dream and Champagne adds magic to a once-in-a-lifetime or recurring visit. Paris is, in fact, the original and closest market place for Champagne, as it was first city to celebrate the region and its wine. Champagne and shopping are well coordinated, with the new Bar à Champagne overlooking the coupole inside Galeries Lafayette, and cafés at Printemps and Le Bon Marché. The Champagne Bar is niched into the highest possible level of the tower at 320 metres altitude. www.restaurants-toureiffel.com www.restaurants-toureiffel.com/bar-a-champagne-toureiffel-paris/bar-panoramique-paris Parc du Champs de Mars 5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 Paris La Tour d’Argent – The Silver Tower Built by Charles V in the 14th century on the left bank of the Seine in the heart of Paris, the southwest tower of the Château de la Tournelle was made from mica-rich stone from Champagne, and was called the “Silver Tower” because it glittered in the sun. You can now make a 360-degree tour of Paris at 125 metres above the ground with a glass of Alain Ducasse selection Champagne from the 100 per cent French wine list. Champagne still plays a glittering role inside La Tour d’Argent, welcoming guests to the restaurant and on the wine list of the restaurant on the sixth floor, with views of Notre Dame Cathedral and monuments along the quais of the Seine. Special menus are designed for the Fourteenth of July evening fireworks display. Even after ten years in town, I discover something new every day. Yet, one of the best benefits Paris offers is how close it is to Champagne; it is often faster to Reims than to cross Paris. The perfect place for an orientation coupe and a kiss. tography exhibitions in the national library and literature awards at Café del Flore. A reservation for the restaurants will grant you special lift access to the perfect panorama for an aperitif. Champagne was shipped directly down the Marne river to town, with no shortage of bubbly publicity. Following your glass around the 360 degree views of precisely laid out monuments, parks and avenues is the perfect appetizer before you descend to enjoy lunch or dinner one platform below. Champagne can be requested to be served in a 1930s “Reims” flute redesigned by Cristallerie Vallerysthal. Summer is the time for me to to visit a caviste and buy a chilled bottle for Champagne picnics in the parks. Spectacular places to experience Paris through a Champagne glass are from rooftops or the banks of the Seine, focusing on the Eiffel Tower. A pioneering marketing man of his era, Mercier also flew branded hot air balloon flights at the same height as the Eiffel Tower during the 1900 Paris World Fair. Only a few high rise buildings have been permitted in Paris, and make unique viewing platforms from which to enjoy Champagne and Paris. The Bar à Champagne serves Alain Ducasse selection or Henriot in a coupe classique cone shaped flute or a glowing coupe lumineuse – special souvenirs to keep for future Champagne picnics. Fi n e S p o t l i g h t F ashion, philosophy, art, design, cuisine, romance and effervesence. Having studied interior design, philosophy, art and wine, Paris offers me everything. Today, Champagne houses sponsor many cultural events in Paris throughout the year, from Pommery at FIAC international contemporary art fair at the Grand Palais, to Louis Roederer pho- 23. Paris unfolds around the Eiffel Tower and sparkles throughout the arrondisements of Paris like a muselet releasing before a Champagne cork pops
Ridgeway says that Champagne clients have a very personal affiliation with Champagne and usually stay loyal to one brand, depending on the occasion, with special events calling for Cristal and Dom Pérignon. Opened by the Coste brothers in 2000, Georges blends avant garde museum and restaurant design by architects Jakob et McFarlane: surreal and futurist, industrial chic and minimalist. The popular House Champagne is produced by Legras in Chouilly, a 100 per cent Grand Cru Chardonnay. Bubble-shaped spaces in the Pink Bar move a light and transparent interior space into a large terrace overlooking Paris onto Notre Dame, the Tour Eiffel and Sacré Cœur in the distance. Le Bar à Champagne is open until 1 am and serves by the glass Jacquart, and offers degustation flights of three small coupes chosen from Besserat de Bellefon, Billecart-Salmon, Canard On top of the Pompidou Centre, the restaurant Georges offers a striking view of Paris. Recently redesigned to make the city of lights the star of the show, the polished bar, made from naturally sparkling materials, is dedicated to Champagne. The list covers all styles, from non-vintage to prestige cuvées, and has offered low dosage wines for over twenty years. Enjoy the view after an exhibition or take the private elevator directly from the court next to the main museum entrance. www.cieldeparis.com/ Tour Maine Montparnasse 56th Floor 33, avenue du Maine 75015 Paris Tel: 33 1 40 64 77 64 email: reservation.cieldeparis@elior.com Le Ciel de Paris Le Georges Le Ciel de Paris – The Sky of Paris With exceptional panoramic views “from the sky” at 210 metres altitude onto the axis of the Champs de Mars, Ecole Militaire and Eiffel Tower, you can see for 40 kilometres from the Tour Maine Montparnasse. Restaurant de La Tour d’Argent 15 quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris Tél : +33 (0)1.43.54.23.31 resa@latourdargent.com www.latourdargent.com/ reservation/restaurant Duchêne, Gosset, Laurent Perrier and Ruinart. The restaurant takes reservations for special dinners, with exceptional views of the Fourteenth of July fireworks. A simple and creative contemporary menu of French and international food, and of course Champagne. By the glass Moët & Chandon and. 24 Jules Verne A sommelier for over thirty years, David Ridgeway devotes fifteen pages of his famous wine list to Champagne. Over 650 selections cover the major houses and renowned Growers such as Egly-Ouriet, Fleury, Larmandier-Bernier and Maillard
www.chezfrancis-restaurant.com Tel: 01 82 28 77 39 Chez Francis at night CHAMPAGNE STAR BARS Promenade in the Tuilleries gardens or watch the final laps of the Tour de France peloton with their celebratory coupes of Champagne, then step inside one of the grand hotels on the Rue du Rivoli and Place de la Concorde and celebrate. by the bottle Billecart Salmon, Louis Roederer Cristal, Dom Pérignon, Krug, Moët & Chandon, and Veuve Clicquot. Fi n e C i t y Chez Francis 25 Restaurant Le Meurice has an impressive six-page Champagne list. “You can not have a fête without its glittering cascades. Le Georges on top of Pompidou Centre Eiffel Tower in background 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France +33 1 44 58 10 10 www.meuricehotel.fr/bars-restaurants. Bar 228 is a timeless meeting place, cosy and intimate and faithful to the original, it was redesigned by Philippe Starck in 2007. Champagne, fill my glass Champagne, I’ll drink to my loves! Champagne, to my friends! Champagne for ever!” Claude Terrail The five star hotel Le Meurice offers a range of champagnes in the bar and restaurants. SPOTLIGHT 6th Floor, Centre Georges Pompidou Place Georges-Pompidou, Paris 75004 www.beaumarly.com/georges/accueil Le Meurice Perfectly located at the angle of the golden triangle joining Avenue de Montagne and Avenue Georges V, Chez Francis is a ‘brasserie de luxe’ with views across the Seine and of the Eiffel Tower. By the glass: Jacques Lassaigne, Laurent-Perrier, Pommery Cuvée Louise and Bruno Paillard. Head Sommelier Estelle Touzet invites wine lovers to discover the best Champagnes at hosted wine tastings “Les Nocturnes du 228”. Prestige cuvées include: Dom Pérignon and Oenothèque, Cristal, Salon, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Dom Ruinart, Krug Clos du Mesnil and Krug Collection. Request a table in the glass fronted restaurant or the front row of the hedged terrace and enjoy a glass or bottle of Lanson or Pommery. Its Champagne bubbling around will open the dance for you … . Bottles include: Billecart Salmon, Bollinger, Deutz, Alfred Gratien, Perrier-Jouët, Pommery, Louis Roederer, Ruinart, Jacques Sélosse, Taittinger, and Veuve Clicquot. Restaurant Le Dali offers Bollinger, Bruno Paillard, Deutz, Henriot, Krug, Laurent-Perrier, Perrier-Jouët, Pommery, Louis Roederer, Ruinart and Veuve Clicquot. You have bottled the whole French spirit
Open every day from 7am to midnight from the outside and during performances. 20, Avenue de New York. Champagnes by the glass Irroy, PerrierJouët, and by the bottle, as well as Barbier, Billecart-Salmon, Dom Pérignon, Louis Roederer Cristal and Ruinart. Before selecting a Champagne, the bar offers a special touch verging on novelty, giving guests their choice of glass: coupe, fine glass, Pompadour and traditional flute. www.radissonblu.com/dokhanhotelparistrocadero/dining Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel, Paris Trocadero – 117 rue de Lauriston, 75016 Cafe Marly looking onto Louvre Pyramid at night CHAMPAGNE ART Monsieur Bleu, Palais de Tokyo The latest opening in Paris, at river level within the tiered contemporary art complex Palais de Tokyo, Monsieur Bleu exhibits a 650m2 terrace and cosmopolitan atmosphere by architect Joseph Dirand. During performances, take a coupe of Charles Heidsieck from one of the original bars into the spectacular hall of mirrors, reminiscent of Versailles, which looks towards the Louvre. The bar offers Champagne and Chocolate and Champagne and Caviar tastings by reservation, and also schedules monthly Champagne tastings and live jazz events. The official Champagne Bar is through yet another entrance; gilted panels from another 18th century private residence were added during the 1990s refurbishment. 75016 Paris Tél.: 01 47 20 90 47 www.palaisdetokyo.com/en/lifestyle/monsieur-bleu monsieur@monsieurbleu.com L’Opéra Restaurant The original Paris stage set, L’Opera restaurant and terrace is an avant-garde design by Odile Decq opened in 2011, with the restaurant run by Chef Yan Tanneau. Mumm, Perrier-Jouët, Ruinart and Veuve Clicquot, as well as more medium-sized houses like Billecart-Salmon, Bollinger, Delamotte, Deutz, Gosset, Charles Heidsieck, Henriot, Krug, Philipponnat, Drappier, Jacquesson, Bruno Paillard, Pol Roger, and Taittinger. Dockhan’s Champagne Bar is welcoming in cooler weather and evenings. There are 85 Champagne references and more than 60 prestige cuvées, including Dom Pérignon, Moët 26 & Chandon, G.H. Le Dokhan’s Bar The first dedicated Champagne bar in Paris, hidden away from the bustle of the Trocadero, takes you in with intimacy and comfort. Head Sommelier Mikael Rodriguez has a sincere passion for, and impressive knowledge, of Champagne. Classical, traditional and contemporary menu, with music and DJ until 2 am. Three different cuvées are offered by the glass, each served in small degustation flutes with a personal explanation of style and production. Uninterrupted glass windows continue inside to out, and a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower across the Seine. Mikail has spent seven years creating and transforming the only Champagne bar in the Radisson world group of hotels. The interior of the Palais Garnier appears completely transformed, however the dramatic restaurant and bar are brilliant installations that do not touch the heritage-list- L’Opéra restaurant ed building. L’Opéra Restaurant Palais Garnier Place Jacques Rouché, 75009 Paris Tel : 01 42 68 86 80 www.opera-restaurant.fr. Champagne dominantes 90 per cent of the drinks list of not only the oldest, but one of the only nonsponsored Champagne bars in Paris. Like Alice walking into a shrinking wonderland, you are transcended in time through a triangular corner entrance into an 18th century interior with low ceilings, and a sumptuous lounge with sofa settings creating private rooms and a warming fireplace. Each week a different producer and different cuvées are highlighted, including prestige cuvées such as Dom Pérignon by the glass, and each month has a different theme: for example, organic Champagne or women cellar masters. Grower Champagnes, too, have a strong presence on the Champagne list: André Jacquart, Agrapart, Françoise Bedel et Fils, Bérêche, Franck Bonville, Cédric Bouchard, Francis Boulard, Brice, Coulon, Diebolt-Vallois, De Souza, Doyard, Egly-Ouriet, René Geoffroy, Janisson-Baradon, Larmandier-Bernier, Marie-Noëlle Ledru, Pierre Moncuit, Pierre Peters, Eric Rodez, Jacques Selosse, and many more. A luxurious palette of green, with velvet banquettes and art deco inspired table settings, marble highlights and corner mirrors reflect the green hedges on the terrace
Also worth exploring is Café de L’Homme at Trocadero, as it boasts restaurant and terrace with the closest view of the Eiffel Tower across the Seine. Champagne Moët & Chandon is offered by the glass, and Dom Pérignon, Frerejean Freres, Louis Roederer Cristal, Ruinart, as well as Veuve Clicquot, by the bottle. She is the research assistant to the upcoming book of Tom Stevenson and Essi Avellan MW, Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine, and a regular judge at major international wine competition including IWC, IWSC, Vinalies Patis, Mondiale du Pinot Noir, Mondiale du Ros. It is currently closed for renovations. SPOTLIGHT Amanda Regan Fi n e C i t y With experience making wine in Champagne, Burgundy and Victoria, Amanda Regan has a Masters degree in Wine Technology, Management & Marketing, and a background in art and design. She has been awarded the dignified title of DameChevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, and the honour of Scholar of the Len Evans Tutorial. Designed by Olivier Gagnère et Yves Taralon to be contemporary and comfortable, and in harmony with the style of Napoleon III, from the interior to the arcaded terrace, the atmosphere is romantic. > Cafe Marly Le Louvre 27. The creative, terroir-based menu by starred Chef Jean Francois Piege is refined and simple. Café Marly An ideal location, beside the Napoléon Court and arcades of the Louvre museum, Café Marly is classic and contemporary, and was the first restaurant opened by the Coste brothers. and Mundus Vini. City, Paris 75001 Encore The perfect excuse to return to Paris in 2015 for a coupe would be the reopening of two iconic hotels, The Ritz on Place Vendome and Hotel Crillon on Place de la Concorde. www.beaumarly.com/cafe-marly/accueil 99, rue de Rivoli. Looking onto the Pyramid by Pie, the scene captures the light and beauty of the Louvre
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This year offers a tribute to the Vintage champagne category, as the winner of great value and class outdid even a long list of outstanding prestige cuvées.. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 29 Text: Essi Avellan MW Photography: Pekka Nuikki Illustration: Minna Liukkonen Champagne shelves are not short of choice. Still, there can only be one winner. This year we blind tasted 350 champagnes that are currently available on the market. This is where FINE Champagne’s shortlist of 100 best champagnes comes into play. How is a consumer to pick out a champagne that is truly high in quality, worth its price and at its best on that particular day. In 2010 the title was given to Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV, in 2011 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, and in 2012 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000. Any champagne that makes into the Top 100 in our rigorous tasting can be warmly recommended
The vintage category was better represented in this list than before, with 27 wines making it to the Top 100.. For the shortlist we chose the three hundred and fifty champagnes and carried out a blind tasting. Quite satisfactorily, the non-vintage wines take up a further 38 per cent, with the first of them – Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve – achieving an amazing second position, seven positions up from last year. Champagne is made under thousands of different labels, by large houses, cooperatives and small growers alike. The world’s best champagne – today Our aim with this annual ranking is to taste the entire offering on the international markets in order to select the champagnes that are showing best at this very moment. Its styles range from blanc de blancs to blanc de noirs, rosés and alternating sweetness levels. However, we had a clear winner, which charmed every taster at every tasting occasion, averaging a magnificent 95.19 points. The most important criterion is the quality of the wine and its accessibility today. At best we have tasted individual champagnes more than ten times, and even at worst at least twice. Its ‘little brother’, PiperHeidsieck Brut, performed better than ever, arriving in seventh position. As many age-worthy prestige cuvées are released young, they may not be able to show their true character at this early stage. The competition was tight in the top 10, the wines 2–10 were within a 1.4 points-range. Even if many markets are saturated by just a few famous names, the reality of champagne is incredibly diverse. We assess the wines on the 100-point scale. After our winner, Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000, prestige cuvées expectedly occupied the majority of the top spots, and make up around 35 per cent of the whole Top 100 list. Contrary to many other wine rankings, this list of the 100 best champagnes is not based on a single tasting; instead, we wish to take into account all of the tastings that we have been privy to during the year. In the following we will guide you to make the best picks for each of the types and styles. This gives us a comprehensive view of the quality and enjoyability of the wines and allows us to eliminate the odd “bad” bottle from our ratings. In fact, we believe these to be the only characteristics that really matter to the consumer. These are the wines the consumer should leave in the cellar for a number of years. Perhaps even wider due to champagne’s blended nature and the large role played by the cellar master in crafting the final product. 30 C ontrary to common belief, the scope in style and quality is at least as wide for champagne as any other fine wine of the world. It comes in variable types, from prestige cuvées to vintages and non-vintages. We may mention the wines cellaring potential in the verbal evaluation, and will also give our estimate of when the wine should be at its best. Results The average score of the wines chosen for the list was, similarly to last year, 89 points, which is a great achievement for young wines that have only recently become available. Before our final decision, we conducted three more large-scale tastings. We do not give points for future expectations, which is the reason most of the top champagnes' points are likely to rise as they approach maturity
The final point score of each wine consists of the average of the blind tastings. Other excellent wines were Taittinger Vintage (28) and Palmer & Co Millésime (43). There were few wines submitted from the 2007 vintage but Heidsieck & Co Monopole Gold Top (26) and Deutz Rosé Millésime (39) show promise for the launches to come. Piper-Heidsieck Millésime (11), Louis Roederer Cristal (12), Cristal Rosé (13), Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé (23), and Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé (33) were amongst the finest. There are still great offerings available from the excellent 2002 vintage. Pierre Gimonnet excelled, with Special Club (13) and Fleuron (64) making it into the Top 100. Also, Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart (20), Pol Roger's regular (53) and as Blanc de Blancs (78) vintages all made it on the list. Our winning wine, Charles Heidsieck Vintage, as well as the third-placed Krug Vintage, came from the year. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 31 Top vintage champagnes All in all, the older champagne vintages on offer stood out as attractive wines with their generous, developed character. Our winner in 2011, Piper-Heidsieck Rare (7), is holding strong. Of the non-vintage rosés, Henriot’s toasty, rich Brut Rosé charmed its way into 8th position and was followed by Jacquart Brut Rosé (25) and the two most famous non-vintage rosés, namely Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut (27) and Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé (29). De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru did well again in 15th position, as did Palmer & Co Brut Réserve in 17th. Pleasant surprises in non-vintages Yet again, a magnificent performance for Charles and Piper Heidsieck in the non-vintage category. Out of the soft and mellow 1999s it was Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millesimé (4), Pommery Cuvée Louise (48) and Deutz Cuvée William Deutz (79) that shone the brightest. One of this year’s most successful vintages was the fine and energetic 2004. The hot 2003 season produced rather unusual wines, and many houses skipped the vintage altogether. This vintage was also successful for Canard-Duchêne Brut Millésimé (40) and Thiénot Cuvée Garance (52). Henriot’s rich 2003 finished in 16th position and is followed soon by Dom Pérignon’s approachable 2003 in 22nd position. The ripe 2005 vintage had a few highlights. The bold, impressively rich 2000 vintage is still performing well. Palmer Vintage performed even better in the 2006 vintage (6). Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve finished in second position and Piper at eighth. Some great and still youthful cuvées were submitted: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé (18), PerrierJouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs (31), Dom Pérignon Rosé (36) – all of which will undoubtedly rise in points as time goes by. The variable and ripe-charactered 1998 vintage was represented successfully by Comtes de Dampierre Prestige (30) and a magnum bottle of De Castelnau Millésimé (70). The annual list of the 100 best champagnes available on the markets is based on tastings and ratings by FINE Champagne Magazine’s editorial team and selected expert guest judges. >. Not one of the few submitted 2008s made it on the list. Taittinger followed with its greatvalue single-vineyard champagne Les Folies de la Marquetterie in 14th position
100 Best for Champagnes 2013 32 Ranking 1 - 25 Points 1 Charles Heidsieck Millésimé 2000 95,19 2 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 93,00 3 Krug Vintage 2000 92,14 4 Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millesimé 1999 92,13 5 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1993 92,00 6 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 91,79 7 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 91,76 8 Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV 91,75 9 Henriot Rosé NV 91,67 9 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 91,67 11 Piper-Heidsieck Millésime 2004 92 12 Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 92 13 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club 2005 91 14 Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV 91 15 De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV 91 16 Henriot Millésime Brut 2003 91 17 Palmer & Co Brut Réserve NV 91 18 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2002 91 19 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004 90 20 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas Francois Billecart 2000 90 21 Krug Grande Cuvée NV 90 22 Dom Pérignon Brut 2003 90 23 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2004 90 24 Palmer & Co Amazone de Palmer NV 90 25 Jacquart Brut Rosé NV 90
Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut NV 89 36 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2002 89 37 Henriot Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 89 38 Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV 89 39 Deutz Rosé Millesimé 2007 89 40 Canard-Duchêne Brut Millésimé 2006 89 41 Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 2004 89 42 G.H.Mumm Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs NV 89 43 Palmer & Co Millésime 2005 89 44 Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier NV 89 45 A. 26 - 50 Points 26 Heidsieck & Co Monopole Gold Top 2007 90 27 Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV 90 28 Taittinger Vintage 2005 90 29 Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV 90 30 Comtes de Dampierre Prestige 1998 90 31 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2002 90 32 Pommery Brut Royal NV 90 33 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2004 89 34 Georges de la Chapelle Cuvée Nostalgie Brut NV 89 35 A. Margaine Cuvée Extra Brut NV 89 46 Armand de Brignac Brut Rosé NV 89 47 De Saint Gall Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV 89 48 Pommery Cuvée Louise 1999 89 49 Henriot Brut Souverain NV 89 50 Charles de Cazanove Vieille France NV 89 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Ranking 33
100 Best for Champagnes 2013 34 Ranking 51 - 75 Points 51 Charles de Cazanove Grand Apparat Brut NV 89 52 Thiénot Cuvée Garance 2006 89 53 Pol Roger Vintage 2000 89 54 Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2002 89 55 Laurent-Perrier Millésime 2004 89 56 Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs NV 88 57 Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Magnum NV 88 58 De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select NV 88 59 Jacquart Millésimé 2002 88 60 Gosset Grand Millésime 2004 88 61 Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV 88 62 Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial NV 88 63 Didier Ducos Brut Millésime 2006 88 64 Pierre Gimonnet Fleuron Blanc de Blancs 2005 88 65 Guy Charlemagne Brut Nature NV 88 66 Dom Caudron Millésimé 2006 88 67 Pierre Gimonnet Oenophile Blanc de Blancs 2004 88 68 Pierre Mignon Brut Prestige NV 88 69 Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P NV 88 70 De Castelnau Millésimé Brut Magnum 1998 88 71 Château de Bligny Clos du Château de Bligny Cuvée 6 Cépages NV 88 72 Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV 88 73 Jacquart Blanc de Blancs 2006 88 74 Guy Charlemagne Mesnillésime Grand Cru 2004 88 75 Collet Brut Grand Art NV 88
Lancelot-Royer Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2005 87 100 Cattier Clos du Moulin NV 87 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Ranking 35. 76 - 100 Points 76 Joseph Perrier Blanc de Blancs 2004 88 77 G.H.Martel & Co Cuvée Victoire Premier Cru NV 88 78 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000 88 79 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 1999 88 80 Prat Confidence Brut NV 88 81 Pierre Mignon Année de Madame 2005 88 82 Boizel Brut Réserve NV 88 83 Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime NV 87 84 Joseph Perrier Brut Rosé 2004 87 85 Philippe Gamet Cuvée 5000 NV 87 86 Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs NV 87 87 Pierre Paillard Bouzy Blanc de Blancs Les Mottelettes 2007 87 88 G.H.Mumm Brut Rosé NV 87 89 Deutz Millésime 2006 87 90 Dom Caudron Camille Philippe Brut NV 87 91 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV 87 92 Gratiot-Pillière Rosé NV 87 93 Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV 87 94 Pommery Rosé Apanage NV 87 95 Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV 87 96 Dom Caudron Camille Philippe Rosé NV 87 97 G.H.Martel & Co Brut Rosé NV 87 98 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV 87 99 P
Daniel Thibault taught me the importance of communicating about the wines that I was elaborating, sharing and to share my vision and my passion with the trade and the consumers. And, of course, to listen to their comments. 36 What is the best champagne you have ever tasted. When tasting the wines of a harvest, one needs to think of the future wines as well as the wines that can be elaborated that year – in other words, always ensuring one has the reserve wines one might need for the future blends. I believe it was my first try alone at the Rare blend – so that would be the Rare Vintage 2002. When not drinking Champagne, I greatly enjoy drinking white wines from Burgundy or red wines from Bordeaux. In your mind, what is the most important characteristic of a great cellar master. I believe a winemaker needs to know how to follow his intuition, of course – but must never forget to be foreseeing. What do you drink if not champagne. However, one more recent occasion comes to my mind: last year, I tasted two bottles of Charles Heidsieck 1928 with the three generations of the Descours family, our owners. It tends to confirm that my work to renew the quality of the Piper-Heidsieck wines is on the right track and that we were able, at the disappearance of Daniel Thibault, to perpetuate the style of Charles Heidsieck. It is a great pride for the team, for the brands, for the house and a personal satisfaction. It was an excellent year, but we decided to put a lot of wines aside for the reserve wine collection, after we had a more difficult 2001 harvest. Régis Camus. What is the biggest lesson you have learned from your predecessor Daniel Thibault. Interview with Régis Camus Chef de Cave and Winemaker for Champagne Piper-Heidsieck What is the significance of excelling in wine competitions to P & C Heidsieck and to you personally. This responsibility I have now passed on to Thierry Roset. Thus, sourcing more Pinot Noirs from the Côte des Bar, extending the period of maturation on lees and post-disgorgement, creating a collection of younger reserve wines specifically adapted to the house’s style, etc. But I also enjoy tasting wines from everywhere in France and around the world, for the pleasure of discovering other ways. Which of your accomplishments makes you most proud. Having brought on subtle changes, over the past 15 years, to the blend and style of Piper-Heidsieck, helping it join the class of the great international houses that it belongs to. We therefore did not release any brut Vintage – but elaborated a Rare 2002, which still today is as refined as I had wished it. What is the best champagne you have ever made. That is the price of stability in style, which I consider to be essential for a champagne house. It had the extra taste of sharing an inheritance of the past with our house’s future. There are so many exceptional champagnes that I have tasted
The third superb Heidsieck this year was the Rosé 1999, which, in accordance with the house style, is particularly rich, toasty and gastronomic. The company is now P&C Heidsieck, with all vinification taking place under the same roof at the new, ultra-modern winery. It is the richness of the Charles Heidsieck style, the wines’ aged, sweet opulence that charms in blind tastings, but it seduces in open tastings, too. We have been enjoying the vintage 2000 for years already, with the wine showing divine quality year after year with no signs of tiring. But, as Charles Heidsieck has learned, there’s a long way from winning competitions to the shopping baskets of champagne drinkers. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Charles Heidsieck – A Serial Winner 37. Our winner this year, Charles Heidsieck Vintage, gets an even longer lees ageing time, extending to over ten years. In 2012, Thierry Roset, who had been working with the two previous cellar masters for 23 years, was promoted to look after Charlie as the cellar master, while Régis Camus still oversees the winemaking of both Piper and Charles Heidsieck as the cellar master of PiperHeidsieck. After Daniel Thibault passed away unexpectedly in 2002, the winemaking responsibility was given to Régis Camus, who had worked together with Thibault for years. P&C Heidsieck’s new owners since 2011, EPI, are still struggling to bring Charles into the limelight, a position deserved due to both the quality and pricing of their cuvées. The blend was reduced from 120 villages to a still outstanding but selected assembly of 60. Piper Heidsieck became a part of the group in 1990, and since then a merging of the two houses has taken place. It is these reserve wines that allow Charles Heidsieck to craft their non-vintage cuvée into a rich, seductively toasty, honeyed wine of great depth. Rémy Martin supported Thibault’s vision of creating what was targeted to become the best non-vintage on the market. Its toasty nature fools many into thinking there is oak involved in the manufacture. If anything, the quality has only increased during Camus’ time, winning him numerous titles as the Sparkling Wine Maker of the Year. Even though the non-vintage Brut Réserve is a real masterpiece, the entire range is superb. Text: Essi Avellan MW A podium position is nothing new to Charles Heidsieck, which has been the number one ranked Champagne brand in major international wine competitions throughout the last decade. But the wines see only stainless steel vats and are kept for an extended amount of time in the vessels on the lees, which brings the richness of flavour and texture to them. Although Charles Heidsieck is the higher ranked of the two, Piper was the obvious choice for Régis, to whom Charles was always Daniel’s baby and Piper his. The blending is followed by a highly respectable eight-to-ten years of ageing on the lees. Also, the wines held back for future blends were to be much older than the usual 1–2 years, averaging 4–5 years and including some 12-year-old wines. But in this year’s FINE Champagne TOP 100 ‘Charlie’ hit the jackpot with its three cuvées – Millésimé 2000, Brut Réserve NV and Rosé Millesimé 1999 – making it into our top four. With a track record of excellent cellar masters, the founding blocks of Charles Heidsieck’s top form of today were laid by the late Daniel Thibault, who was snatched from Henriot to Charles Heidsieck when Rémy Martin acquired the house in 1985. The assemblage remains as the classic equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Simultaneously with the cellar master change, the Charles Heidsiecks were dressed in new bottles and labels with some alterations in the wine, too. Thibault started collecting an enormous stock of reserve wines, aiming ideally for 40 per cent of reserve wines in the blend
TOP 10 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 1 95p (95,19p) Charles Heidsieck Millésimé 2000 2 93p (93,00p) Colour: Shiny deep golden Nose: Opulent, giving and evolved nose of roasted coffee beans, sweet tropical fruits and honey Palate: Rich, voluptuous, silky smooth and caressing Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Polished to perfection When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Mindblowingly rich, seamless and complex Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV Colour: Deep golden Nose: Sweet spicy and rich toasty with exuberant layered fruit Palate: Beautifully velvety with balanced ample dosage Ending: Seamless In a nutshell: Pedigree When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Perfect body, perfect mind 38 4 3 92p (92,14p) Krug Vintage 2000 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Rich, ripe, toast, tropical fruits and light oakiness Palate: Wide and fleshy yet firm Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Made to impress When to drink: 2013–2030 Final verdict: Seamless, full-bodied and rich, full of potential 92p (92,13p) Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millesimé 1999 Colour: Deep peachy Nose: Rich, maturing, dried fruit, coffee, oriental spices Palate: Wide and smooth Ending: Long-lasting and in line with the palate In a nutshell: An evolved, impressive, cellared to perfection rosé When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Not your simple little rosé but a gastronomic companion
5 92p (92,00p) Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1993 6 Palate: Brisk and full of life Ending: Long and linear In a nutshell: Style icon When to drink: 2013–2022 Final verdict: Where freshness meets complexity 91p (91,76p) Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 8 91p (91,67p) Henriot Rosé NV Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Inviting toasty nose, luscious ripe Pinot fruit, coffee, baking spices Palate: Velvety, rich, gentle and crisp Ending: Clean and compact In a nutshell: Pretty When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Charming combination of evolved toastiness and bright red fruit Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV (91,75p) Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Lemony fragrant, toasty and creamy, coffee and pastry shop Palate: Lovely toast and zesty freshness and linearity Ending: Crisp, firm and lingering In a nutshell: True finesse When to drink: 2013–2025 Final verdict: She has got it all 9 91p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Beautifully elegant toast and coffee over lemon marengue and minerality Palate: Intense yet lightened by a lovely acid line Ending: Long, pure and mineral In a nutshell: Benchmark blanc de blancs When to drink: 2013–2022 Final verdict: Dressed to impress Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Fragrant, yeasty and toasty with lemon 7 (91,79p) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 91p Colour: Deep golden Nose: Powerful gunpowdery, fruit-forward nose full of toast, brioche and honey Palate: Full of fruit from the beginning to the end, medium weight with freshness Ending: Long, Intense In a nutshell: Bold and beautiful When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Chapeau! 9 91p (91,67p) Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Refined, toasty, vanilla, lemon, white flowers, perfume Palate: Firm, energetic, linear, crisp Ending: Long and zesty In a nutshell: Still holding it back When to drink: 2013–2025 Final verdict: Still tight and compact and will shine even brighter in the years to come Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s TOP 10 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 39
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 11 92p Piper-Heidsieck Millésime 2004 12 14 91p 15 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Playful, sweet and fun nose of confectionary, lemon and mild toast Palate: Seamless, medium-bodied and full of life Ending: Long and harmonious In a nutshell: Crowd-pleaser When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Liquid silk 40 17 91p Palmer & Co Brut Réserve NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Refined, lightly charred toasty and lemony Palate: Lean and focused, full of life Ending: Pure and fresh In a nutshell: Seamless from the beginning to the end When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Outstanding value 92p 91p De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV 16 91p 91p Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2002 Colour: Medium-deep peachy salmon Nose: Restrained and delicate, maturing peach and pepper Palate: Velvet smooth, with super refined mousse Ending: Long and firm, still holding it back In a nutshell: A grande dame When to drink: 2013–2022 Final verdict: Stunning evulution to be expected, all pieces at place and so charming already Henriot Millésime Brut 2003 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Lovely rich, toasty character with bright fruit in exuberance Palate: Wide and smooth with fine freshness Ending: Long and fruity In a nutshell: Ripe and round yet lively When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Instantly impressive Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Lemony mineral with toast and patisserie Palate: Linear with fine acid line Ending: Pure and long In a nutshell: Streamlined When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: What a value 18 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club 2005 Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Mineral with ripe white fruit Palate: Intense, firm and structured Ending: Long and in accordance with nose In a nutshell: Character When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Goût de Terroir Palate: Compact and linear with brisk acid backbone Ending: Pure, mouthwatering In a nutshell: Youthful energy When to drink: 2013–2024 Final verdict: Starting to open up and reveal some of its glories voluptuous, lively Pure and fresh Enchanting 2013–2019 Joie de Vivre Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Refined, bright fruity nose with ripe white fruit, light spice Colour: Deep lemon-gold Nose: Impressive sweet, toast and caramel Palate: Full, Ending: In a nutshell: When to drink: Final verdict: 92p 13 19 91p Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004 Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Timid with fresh, youthful fruitiness and gentle spicy touch Palate: Smooth, round yet light-weight with gorgeous soft mousse Ending: Focused and energetic In a nutshell: Full of life When to drink: 2013–2025 Final verdict: Vivacity and elegance
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée 90p Nicolas François Billecart 2000 21 90p Final verdict: Charmer 90p Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2004 24 90p 90p Heidsieck & Co Monopole Gold Top 2007 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Deep, wide and powerful with aged leesy characters Palate: Depth and freshness with red fruit dominance Ending: Long, structured In a nutshell: Clames its crown When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Not at all modest but righteously so Palmer & Co Amazone de Palmer NV Dom Pérignon Brut 2003 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Charmingly toasty, gunpowdery nose with lemon, white flowers, lime, herbs Palate: Compact, round and crisp Ending: Powerful medium-long finish In a nutshell: Instant attraction When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Appealing and easy-going, lacks the firmness and focus of best vintages 25 90p Jacquart Brut Rosé NV Colour: Medium-deep cherrysalmon Nose: Lovely evolution on the strong, soft Pinot nose Palate: Juicy fruitiness and fine freshness on the palate Ending: Clean and fruity In a nutshell: Solid effort When to drink: 2013–2016 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Rich coffee toastiness, seductive, soft vanilla and patisserie nose Colour: Medium-deep orangehued Nose: Deep with rich Pinot character, cherries and baking spices Palate: Vinous and round still with vivacity Ending: Long and inline with the palate In a nutshell: Young with lots of ripe Pinot fruit When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Silky and rich, craves more time 26 90p Colour: Deep golden Nose: Very concentrated with coffee, mature, raisiny character with coffee, honey and wood Palate: Full, long, voluptuous Ending: Very long and complex with fine supporting acidline In a nutshell: Velvet-smooth and opulent When to drink: 2013–2025 Final verdict: The painter's palette Colour: Deep lemon-gold Nose: Refined, deep, soft and toasty nose with sweet tropical fruit and apricot Palate: Full, fleshy and almost as good as the nose Ending: Medium-long, round and fruity In a nutshell: Sweetheart When to drink: 2013–2015 23 Krug Grande Cuvée NV 22 Palate: Opulent, voluptuous, soft palate Ending: Long and crisp In a nutshell: Comfort wine When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Soft, caressing Final verdict: Seductively delicate yet with smooth vinosity 27 90p Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Stylish, elegant, pretty coffee and berries combination Palate: Full, soft palate with chewy strawberry fruit Ending: Lingering and vinous In a nutshell: Soulful When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Ready to go, an attractive combination of young and maturing elements 28 90p Taittinger Vintage 2005 Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Overt, ripe, intensly fruity toast and honey nose Palate: Wide and fleshy yet firm palate Ending: Long and full of fruit In a nutshell: At your disposal When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Solid performer, enjoy now or later Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 20 41
Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut NV Colour: Deep lemon-straw Nose: Fragrant, earthy slightly austere nose with plenty of character Palate: Spicy, firm, muscular, structured, different Ending: Nice long finish In a nutshell: Vive la difference! When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Big personality Comtes de Dampierre Prestige 1998 31 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2004 89p Dom Pérignon Rosé 2002 Colour: Deep orange-hued Nose: Very Pinot dominant nose, forest floor, spice, complex Palate: Velvety, round, fleshy Ending: Long and seamless In a nutshell: Gorgeous, structured Pinot still holding it back When to drink: 2013–2025 Final verdict: Still tight and youthful, full of promise Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2002 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Highly mineral and restrained, still timid with chalk, yoghurt and hay Palate: Linear with brisk, linear acidity Ending: Medium-long and highly mineral In a nutshell: Reserved with tightpacked fruit When to drink: 2015–2025 Final verdict: Too young really but shows promise 34 89p Georges de la Chapelle Cuvée Nostalgie Brut NV Colour: Pale lemon green Nose: Fresh, refined, stylish, crisp lemon twist, nice toast and minerality Palate: Fresh and fruity with stylish, soft mousse Ending: Medium-long and balanced In a nutshell: Refined but with personality When to drink: 2013–2015 Colour: Medium-deep peachhued Nose: Overt, candied, orange marmalade, overripe apple and earthy complexity Palate: Powerful, fleshy, vibrant, fresh, muscular Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Full and fleshy When to drink: 2013–2023 Final verdict: Oxidative notes on the nose but a very solid palate, should be given some time 36 90p Final verdict: Highly satisfactory with fine underlying toast 37 89p Henriot Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fine-tuned, lemony, some autolytic toast, toffee and dough Palate: Refined, fresh, linear Ending: Lingering and pure with minerality and a gunpowdery finish In a nutshell: Elegant style, comes with layers When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Ready to charm. 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 29 90p Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV 30 90p Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Soft, candied, clean nose with gentle toast beyond red fruit overtones Palate: Crisp, linear and silky with pencil shaving tones Ending: Fresh and vivacious In a nutshell: Cheerful When to drink: 2013–2018 Colour: Deep lemon yellow Nose: Opulent, smooth patisserie and fresh ground coffee, spiciness Palate: Round and soft, caressing Ending: Medium-long, round and fruity In a nutshell: Harmony When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Ready to be enjoyed Final verdict: Will not let you down, not simple despite its youthful character 32 90p Pommery Brut Royal NV 33 90p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Clean, bright, fragrant, pure, appretising, gently toasty Palate: Medium-bodied, rich, stylish, with noticeable yet balanced residual sugar Ending: Long and seamless In a nutshell: Pretty and fault-free When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Attractive and well crafted 42 35 89p A
Margaine Cuvée Extra Brut NV Colour: Pale green Nose: Attractive zesty green fruitiness intertwined to a light toastiness Palate: Focused and lean, elegant and mineral Ending: Gunpowdery complexity on the long, dry, linear finish In a nutshell: Minimalistic When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Refined and purist 40 89p Canard-Duchêne Brut Millésimé 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Accentuated gunpowdery nose and ripe, fresh white fruits, floral Palate: Linear, fresh, zesty Ending: Adequately long and pleasantly clean In a nutshell: Pure precision When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Fresh, turning toasty 43 89p Palmer & Co Millésime 2005 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Pronounced fruity nose with sulphuric toasty complexity and minerality Palate: Fine, focused palate with length and zestiness Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: Stylish toasty style When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: High quality fruit crafted to impress 46 89p Armand de Brignac Brut Rosé NV Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Soft, mild, clean with youthful fresh red fruitiness Palate: Succulent fruit, floral, straightforward but pleasant and appetising Ending: Medium-long and refreshing In a nutshell: Youthfully playful When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Ready to drink pure red fruit charm Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 38 43. 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 89p Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft,stylish, overt, ripe white fruit Palate: Compact, sophisticated, gentle, caressing Ending: Suitably long and appetising In a nutshell: Firm and fresh When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Understated elegance 41 89p Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 2004 Colour: Deep orange-hued Nose: Attractive ripe Pinot fruit, developing, forest floor, fresh red fruit, plenty of layers Palate: Vinous yet elegant with good freshness Ending: Sweet, seductive strawberry finish In a nutshell: Depth meeting elegance When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Maturing beautifully with already aged elements alongside berried notes 44 89p Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, youthful, zesty, lemony, ripe green fruits Palate: Linear, succulent palate with muscle and spine Ending: Stylishly toasty and lingering In a nutshell: Soulful When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Zesty with excellent acidity and fine intensity of high quality fruit 39 89p Deutz Rosé Millesimé 2007 Colour: Pale peachy, pretty colour Nose: Soft, refined nose with cool, bright fruit intertwined with light toast and smoky minerality Palate: Crisp and firm with a fine mousse Ending: Long and clean In a nutshell: Purity When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Beautifully fresh and focused rosé 42 89p G.H.Mumm Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs NV Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Youthful, lemony, floral, candied with a seductive toasty overtone Palate: Lean, zesty, fresh, pure, long, dry Ending: Feather-light and vivacious In a nutshell: Perfect aperitif for the next sip When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Fun and finesse 45 89p A
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 47 89p De Saint Gall Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV 48 89p Final verdict: Pure, pleasurable and invigorating 89p Charles de Cazanove Vieille France NV 51 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, rich, developing nose of ripe fruit and light spiciness Palate: Round, fleshy and easy-going Ending: Medium-long and intense In a nutshell: Pleasurable When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Ready to drink in a style pleasing many 44 53 89p Pol Roger Vintage 2000 Colour: Very deep golden Nose: Soft and evolved, apricotty, honeyed, delicious coffee and patisserie complexity Palate: Full, round, fleshy, opulent Ending: Long, concentrated In a nutshell: Mature but does not lack life When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Old wine lovers' treat 89p Charles de Cazanove Grand Apparat Brut NV 52 89p 54 89p fleshy, structured Long and firm Quite a Casanova 2013–2016 Full, firm impressive style, great value Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2002 Colour: Deep lemon-gold Nose: Stylish, highly toasty, sweet tropical, apricotty Palate: Full, fleshy, verging towards heavy Ending: Medium-long, weighty and concentrated In a nutshell: A rich red fruit style When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Ambitious in the heavyweight division Thiénot Cuvée Garance 2006 Colour: Deep orange-hued Nose: Rich, savoury with red fruit depth and ash-like minerality, raspberry candies and earthy spiciness Palate: Voluptuous and velvety, mouthfilling Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Dressed to impress When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Well-built and firm, with character Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Complex and deep smoky, gunpowdery, lemony, tropical Palate: Full, Ending: In a nutshell: When to drink: Final verdict: Henriot Brut Souverain NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, stylish, nice toasty undertone, pure fresh lemony fruit Palate: Elegant, soft, silky, refined Ending: Long and balanced In a nutshell: Great craftmanship When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Perfectly polished champagne with attractive toasty complexity and creamy texture Colour: Pale lemony Nose: Stylish, coffee, vanilla, sweet candied nose with layer upon layer Palate: Tight, floral, vegetal palate still in restraint Ending: Long, pure, fresh In a nutshell: Elegance When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Still reserved but opens up in the glass over time Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Fresh, floral, pure, elegant, light pencil shaving toastiness Palate: Linear, stylish, long, fresh, zesty, polished, very clean with lemony acidity Ending: Lean and pure In a nutshell: Squaky clean Chardonnay charm When to drink: 2013–2015 50 Pommery Cuvée Louise 1999 49 55 89p Laurent-Perrier Millésime 2004 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, mild, floral, white fruit, soft toastiness in the back Palate: Wide, linear, structured with fine tension Ending: Medium-long and refreshing In a nutshell: Fresh and floral but with intensity underneath When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Delightfully playful and invigorating now but will have complexity to be gained
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 89p Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs NV 57 88p Ending: Chewy with enough freshness In a nutshell: Bold Pinot bomb When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Something different with plenty of character 88p Jacquart Millésimé 2002 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fragrant nose with yeasty complexity, vanilla and brioche Palate: Round and creamy with firmness Ending: Long-lasting and clean In a nutshell: Harmonious with instant appeal When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Inviting and attractive without being obvious or boring 62 88p Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Light and mild, fruity, fresh, pure, lemony, floral Palate: Linear, fresh, clean Ending: Medium-long with balanced high dosage In a nutshell: Morning dew When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Attractive in its lightness and smoothness here and now, some complexity to be gained over the next 2-3 years 88p Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Inviting and elegant gunpowdery and flower nose Palate: Smooth and creamy with fine mousse Ending: Fine, linear and festy In a nutshell: Reductive with pretty gunpowdery toast effect When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Beautiful in magnum with additional bottle age Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Creamy rich red berry and vanilla Palate: Weighty, stylish and muscular, more interesting palate than the nose 59 Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Magnum NV 58 60 88p Gosset Grand Millésime 2004 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Overt, spicy, earthy, appley, herbacious Palate: Full, fat and could use some spine Ending: Long with juicy, succulent fruit In a nutshell: Pinot richness When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: A food champagne with opulent fruit and weight 63 88p Didier Ducos Brut Millésime 2006 Colour: Pale lemon-green, youthful Nose: Light, lemony with floral Chardonnay note and straightforward fruity character Palate: Light-weight and elegant with enough intensity Ending: Medium-long and clean In a nutshell: Pretty little thing When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Ready to drink, crisp and clean wine of fine value De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select NV Colour: Medium-deep golden Nose: Opulent red fruit nose with faint spice and toast Palate: Soft, fleshy and fruit-forward Ending: Long enough with succulent fruit In a nutshell: Performs When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Appealing red fruit character without great complexity 61 88p Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV Colour: Deep peach-hued Nose: Mild, elegant, lightly berried nose Palate: Similar refinement continues on the palate, fleshy, succulent Ending: Clean and fresh In a nutshell: A beautiful young lady When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Understated elegance 64 88p Pierre Gimonnet Fleuron Blanc de Blancs 2005 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Mild, restrained, lightly floral nose of excellent purity Palate: Fresh and vibrant with fine soft mousse Ending: Medium-long and zesty In a nutshell: Delightfylly clean and crisp When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: With subdued charm Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 56 45
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 65 Brut Nature 88p Guy Charlemagne NV Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Soft, mild, floral nose with cardamom and lemony minerality Palate: Fresh, zesty, firm Ending: Long and linear, dry but balanced In a nutshell: Clean, crisp and very dry When to drink: 2013–2015 66 88p Dom Caudron Millésimé 2006 67 88p Colour: Deep, bright lemon Nose: Deep, soft, fruity nose with red fruit opulence and nice integrated toast Palate: Overt, rich, powerful Ending: Long and fruity In a nutshell: Blockbuster style When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Muscular and fruity with character Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, creamy-fruity nose with sublime charred toasty note Palate: Rich, soft, perfectly balanced Ending: Seamless with a mineral finish In a nutshell: Supressed power When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Lean and linear with plenty of fruit underneath Final verdict: Subtle, stylish and pure 68 88p Pierre Mignon Brut Prestige NV 69 88p Colour: Bright, youthful lemon Nose: Fresh, pure, clean, lemony, patisserie Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, ripe, slightly earthy nose with faint yeasty-toasty note Palate: Linear, restrained, fresh, slightly foamy but compact and pleasurable Ending: Medium-long and dry In a nutshell: Serious and focused When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Some austerity but firm and structured 46 71 88p Château de Bligny Clos du Château de Bligny Cuvée 6 Cépages NV Colour: Deep golden Nose: Rich, floral, evolved, even a touch of oxidation, wax and spice Palate: Strong and wide Ending: Long, dry and aromatic with good fruit intensity In a nutshell: Flower power When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Particular but with power and presence Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P NV Palate: Creamy texture, soft, silky Ending: Long and fresh In a nutshell: All pices at place When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Pristinely made and likeable 72 88p Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Restrained with some sulphuric complexity Palate: Wide yet light and zesty Ending: Dry and clean In a nutshell: Rounded and easygoing When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Slightly overshadowed by sulphuric notes for the time being Pierre Gimonnet Oenophile Blanc de Blancs 2004 70 88p De Castelnau Millésimé Brut Magnum 1998 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Evolved, rich toastiness, sweet fruit, dried apricot Palate: Full, long, compact Ending: Long-lasting and mature In a nutshell: Aged appeal When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Fully mature, great gastronomic companion 73 88p Jacquart Blanc de Blancs 2006 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Fine-tuned, bright white fruit nose with creamy ans yeasty tones Palate: Energetic, fresh and light-weight, with intensity Ending: Long and suitably dry In a nutshell: Elegant and streamlined When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: All pieces at place, charming
Martel & Co Cuvée Victoire Premier Cru NV 78 87p 87p Prat Confidence Brut NV Colour: Pale lemon green Nose: Soft, mild, white fruit nose with pretty underlying toasty note Palate: Fresh, linear, light Ending: Medium-long and refreshing In a nutshell: Pretty and seamless When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Higly satisfying and appealingly soft and creamy Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000 87p 81 87p Pierre Mignon Année de Madame 2005 Colour: Medium-deep golden Nose: Pronounced, fruity and spicy Palate: Firm and rich, wide Ending: Medium-long and fruitforward In a nutshell: Fleshy When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Rich Pinot character with Chardonnay livening up the palate Joseph Perrier Blanc de Blancs 2004 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fruity, slightly dusty and oxidative, apple and baking spice layers Palate: Full, fleshy, voluptuous, gentle and round Ending: Lemony, fresh In a nutshell: Easy-going When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Ready here and now, no great complexity but pleasurable and undemanding 79 87p Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Lovely, accentuated coffee nose, sweet patisserie, plenty of bottle age characters Palate: Full, sweet, concentrated, caressing Ending: Long and packed In a nutshell: Big boy When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Explosive Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, lemon, gentle yeastcomplexity in the background Palate: Rich, creamy, soft Ending: Fresh and pleasurable In a nutshell: Unfussy When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Aims to please 80 Collet Brut Grand Art NV 76 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 1999 Colour: Pale lemon-gold Nose: Pronounced, spicy and lemony nose with peculiar medicinal notes Palate: Full, velvety, fresh with smooth mousse Ending: Compact and mellow In a nutshell: Fine but leaves you wanting still a little extra When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Character of its own but misses the wow factor 82 87p Boizel Brut Réserve NV Colour: Bright yellow Nose: Promising, soft, creamy, developed, plasant Palate: Fresh, linear, compact, elegant,light, floral, pin-cushiony mousse Ending: Long and fruity In a nutshell: Fleshy and fruity When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: A mouthful with fruitforward succulence Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 74 47. 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 88p Guy Charlemagne Mesnillésime Grand Cru 2004 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, nice charred toffee and caramel note with tropical fruit Palate: Minimalistic, smooth and crisp Ending: Long and linear In a nutshell: Purity When to drink: 2013–2018 75 88p Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Fresh, floral, soft, elegant, candied Palate: Attractive, creamy, linear Ending: Medium-long, straightforward fruity In a nutshell: A lovely summer day When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Solid, harmonious with everything in place Final verdict: The slight onedimensionality is compensated by the purity and minerality 77 87p G.H
100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 83 87p Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime NV 84 87p Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs NV 87 87p Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Soft, even muted, vanilla and pastry shop promising nose Palate: More expressive palate with firmness and structure Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Means business When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Go getter 48 89 87p Deutz Millésime 2006 Colour: Pale lemony Nose: Fragrant, floral, lemony, fine-tuned Palate: Very soft, excellent creamy mousse Ending: Long, pure, fine In a nutshell: Caressingly soft When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Smooth yet full of life Pierre Paillard Bouzy Blanc de Blancs Les Mottelettes 2007 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, pure, bright nose of soft white fruit, vanilla, the lightest seductive toast underneath, Palate: Firm and muscular Ending: Lingering and fresh In a nutshell: Degree of elegance When to drink: 2013–2018 Final verdict: Well-built with soul inside 90 87p Dom Caudron Camille Philippe Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, clean and fresh, promising nose of vanilla, ripe white fruitt Palate: Medium-bodied, soft, overt Ending: Medium-long and clean In a nutshell: Smoothness When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Ready to please Philippe Gamet Cuvée 5000 NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Soft, mild, white fruit, peach, vanilla Palate: Fruity, mouth-filling but feels light due to crisp acidity, soft mousse Ending: Long and feisty In a nutshell: A wake up call When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Invigoratingly fresh yet full of fruit Palate: Plush and vinous, giving on the earthy and fruity palate Ending: Medium-long and a mouthful In a nutshell: Surprise on the palate When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Nose and palate don't quite match but the whole still works well. Final verdict: A fine performance due to lovely balance and not overly sweet character 87p 87p Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Stylish, soft, fruity with restraint Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Bright, soft, white fruit and flower nose Palate: Sweet, but good, very clean and balanced Ending: Sweet but finishes fresh In a nutshell: Smooth criminal When to drink: 2013–2016 86 Joseph Perrier Brut Rosé 2004 85 88 87p G.H. No need to wait. Mumm Brut Rosé NV Colour: Bright cherry nose Nose: Fragrant, quite elegant, fun, soapy, clean Palate: Light, youthful, fresh, simple palate Ending: Long, compact In a nutshell: Flirtatious When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Easy-going and quaffable 91 87p Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV Colour: Deep golden Nose: Opulent, dried apricot, lovely toasty whiff with depth Palate: Full, buttery, so soft a mousse Ending: Strong and vinous In a nutshell: Bubbles are a side factor, a great wine When to drink: 2013–2020 Final verdict: Still slightly reserved but promises good
Lancelot-Royer Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2005 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Fresh, vibrant white fruit and floral Palate: Stylishly lean and zesty Ending: Medium-long with good fruit purity and freshness In a nutshell: Solid performer When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Crisp and delightful Pommery Rosé Apanage NV Colour: Pale peachy, pretty colour Nose: Mild and smooth, sophisticated ripe peach with some leesy complexity Palate: Vinous and silky, elegant Ending: Pure, light and fresh In a nutshell: Sophistication When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: A cool, refined style 97 87p G.H.Martel & Co Brut Rosé NV Colour: Deep cherry-salmon Nose: Pronounced, berried, ripe and wooing Palate: Fleshy and soft, supple Ending: Medium-long, clean In a nutshell: As easy-going as it gets When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: A clever, easy, round, non-offensive style 100 87p Cattier Clos du Moulin NV Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Round, white fruit laden spicyearthy style Palate: Layered, wide and vinous and structured Ending: Long, opened up in the glass In a nutshell: A character of its own When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Interesting and layered but with edges and still very youthfull Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 92 49. 100 BEST Champagnes for 2013 87p Gratiot-Pillière Rosé NV Colour: Medium-deep cherry Nose: Fruity, stylish, evolving Palate: Structured and appealing Ending: Medium-long and clean In a nutshell: Not a stand-out but works well When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Delightful 95 87p Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Clean, soft, ripe peach, marmalade, birch leaves Palate: Full, soft with a fluffy mousse Ending: Easy, balanced In a nutshell: Crowd-pleaser When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Creamy, soft and youthful 98 87p Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Light, highly floral, mild, smooth, creamy, vegetal and mineral complexity Palate: Fresh, light-weight with good intensity Ending: Long but very dry finish In a nutshell: Refined, linear style When to drink: 2013–2017 Final verdict: Youthful and crisp, still ageworthy 93 87p Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV 94 87p Colour: Deep cherry with peachy hues Nose: Fresh, berried, tight with stylish Pinot fruit Palate: Structured with muscle and vinosity Ending: Medium-long and firm In a nutshell: Bodybuilder When to drink: 2013–2016 Final verdict: Ready to go but with potential 96 87p Dom Caudron Camille Philippe Rosé NV Colour: Deep cherry Nose: Fruit-forward, overt, clean with light earthy complexity Palate: Fleshy, fresh and fruit-driven Ending: Medium-long and dry In a nutshell: Sweet fruit bomb When to drink: 2013–2015 Final verdict: Simple yet deliciously quaffable 99 87p P
Moreover, non-vintage champagne must be ready to drink as soon as it has been released – the majority of champagnes are consumed immediately after purchase. Margaine Cuvée Extra Brut NV 88p. The cellarmasters of major champagne houses may blend more than four hundred base wines into their classic champagne in order to create a high volume of balanced, subtle champagne. Maintaining the consistent style and quality of the house's non-vintage champagne year after year is a challenge, yet it is paramount, because the very idea of non-vintage champagne is that no vintage-related variation can be detected in the taste – thus allowing the consumer to select his or her favourite cuvée with confidence. In the varying climatic conditions of the Champagne region, consistent quality is achieved by using reserve wines from previous years. The minimum maturing time of non-vintage champagne after bottling is 15 months, but most prestigious champagne houses mature their non-vintage for 2–3 years or longer in order to achieve the autolytic, toasty aromas typical of champagne. Overall placement NV Blanc Top 10 1 (2) Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 92p 2 (8) Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV 90p 3 (14) Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV 90p 4 (15) De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV 90p 5 (17) Palmer & Co Brut Réserve NV 89p 6 (32) Pommery Brut Royal NV 89p 7 (37) Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV 89p 8 (38) Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV 89p 9 (44) Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier NV 88p 10 (45) A. Non-vintage champagne 50 Non-vintage (NV, sans année) champagne is the backbone of every champagne house's production, typically accounting for 80–90 per cent of the total volume. Therefore, nonvintage champagnes usually consist of all three grape varieties – which are sourced extensively throughout the region. Hence, it is also their most important product, taking up the most time and effort
On the contrary, the cellarmaster composes vintage champagnes from the base wines that best reflect that particular year's characteristics. Despite the variation between different vintages, champagnes of this category are quite easy for consumers to buy: whenever a champagne house releases a vintage champagne, it theoretically indicates that the year is a good one and, consequently, so is the champagne. The wines feature certain intellectualism, because they provide us with information about the differences between certain years. Unlike non-vintage champagnes, their vintage counterparts are not meant to be consistent year after year. In other words, it resembles the reserve wine category that is familiar in other styles of wine. Overall placement Vintage Top 10 1 (1) Charles Heidsieck Millésimé 2000 93p 2 (6) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 92p 3 (11) Piper-Heidsieck Millésime 2004 92p 4 (16) Henriot Millésime 2003 92p 5 (26) Heidsieck & Co Monopole Gold Top 2007 90p 6 (28) Taittinger Vintage 2005 89p 7 (40) Canard-Duchêne Brut Millésimé 2006 89p 8 (43) Palmer & Co Millésime 2005 89p 9 (53) Pol Roger Vintage 2000 89p 10 (55) Laurent-Perrier Millésime 2004 89p Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Vintage champagne 51. Furthermore, vintage champagnes contain longer-life base wines, and while they are quite enjoyable immediately upon release, they still have significant development potential. Vintage champagnes are cellared over fur for a minimum of thirty-six months, and usually for much longer. In spite of this, they are less expensive than prestige cuvées. Vintage champagne also entails a promise of greater tasting pleasure in the years to come, as it improves with ageing. Vintage champagne (millésime) is made in better-than-average years and cellared longer than non-vintage champagnes
Nearly all prestige champagnes, especially Cristal, Dom Pérignon, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses and Salon, require long cellaring before they reveal their true, rich, subtle and aristocratically stylish essence. Prestige cuvées Every bottle of champagne is a luxury product, but not everyone wants to settle for the classic non-vintage. Nevertheless, Moët & Chandon was the first champagne house to release a commercial prestige champagne, the Dom Pérignon vintage 1921, which was released in 1936. The uppermost category in the champagne pyramid consists of prestige cuvée (Cuvée Prestige) champagnes. This category originated in 1873, when Czar Alexander II of Russia found no ordinary champagne to be good enough for him and ordered his own special blend in a crystal bottle from his trusted supplier, Champagne Louis Roederer. It is a shame that such champagnes are released and consumed much too young – every year of patient cellaring is like putting money in the bank. The Cristal champagne by Louis Roederer as we know it today was launched after World War II. Overall placement Prestige Cuvée Blanc Top10 1 (3) Krug Vintage 2000 94p 2 (5) Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1993 93p 3 (7) Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 92p 4 (10) Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 91p 5 (12) Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 91p 6 (13) Pierre Gimonnet Special Club 2005 91p 7 (20) Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 2000 91p 8 (21) Krug Grande Cuvée NV 91p 9 (22) Dom Pérignon Brut 2003 91p 10 (24) Palmer & Co Amazone de Palmer NV 91p Points. In addition to the premium ingredients, the rich variety of aromas, as well as the intensive structure and small bubbles associated with prestige champagnes, can be attributed to the prolonged ageing in bottles on the lees. In many markets, especially in the Far East, the current demand for luxury champagne clearly exceeds supply. Due to its superb acid structure, champagne ages beautifully, and prestige champagnes in particular are at their peak long after release. Tasting soon after release may leave questions on the taster’s palate: the champagnes are often very tight and vacuously mineral, with only slight references to their future potential. The category started as a niche branch but rose to its current status in the 1950s and 1960s, and it is continuously increasing in significance. 52 Prestige champagnes are made from grapes harvested from the highest-rating Grand Cru villages, and often exclusively from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay as they have the longest maturation potential
Pink champagne has a rather girly image, but this does not reflect its actual style. In addition, the arrangements required for the extra vinification and smaller batch sizes are costly. The 3 (27) Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV colours may vary from pale pink to nearly as dark as red wine. The production of mature, high quality red wines for rosé champagne is difficult and expensive in Champagne. Many rosé champagnes go well with meals, and some 1 (4) Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millesimé 1999 are even able to stand up to red meat. Cristal Rosé, Dom 6 (88) G.H.Mumm Brut Rosé NV Pérignon Rosé, Laurent-Perrier Alexandra, Dom Ruinart Rosé and Pommery Cuvée 7 (92) Gratiot-Pillière Rosé NV Louise Rosé are all wonderful examples of the ageing potential, depth and 8 (93) Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV multidimensionality of rosé champagne. As a matter of fact, rosé champagne is the most Overall masculine champagne because of its winePrestige Cuvée and Vintage TOP 10 placement like and often stronger character. Rosé champagne can be made in two Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon 2 (18) alternative ways: by macerating dark grapes Rosé 2002 in the juice (rosé de saignée) or by blending in some red wine from the Champagne 3 (19) Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004 region to a white base wine (rosé d’assemblage). Rosé champagne Points 93p 93p 93p 93p 92p 92p 91p 91p 90p 90p Points 91p 90p 88p 88p 88p 88p 88p 88p 87p 87p Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Even though rosé champagne has allegedly been manufactured in the Champagne region since at least 1775, it has never been as popular as it is today. These champagnes are true rarities: for 9 (94) Pommery Rosé Apanage NV example, the edition of Cuvée Louise in 10 (96) Dom Caudron Camille Philippe Rosé NV vintage years is 200 000 bottles but that of the corresponding rosé is only 5000. It is often 6 (36) Dom Pérignon Rosé 2002 impossible to determine the manufacturing 7 (39) Deutz Rosé Millesimé 2007 method when tasting the wine, although sometimes a saignée wine can be recognised 8 (41) Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 2004 due to its more tannic nature. No more than ten years ago, rosé champagne accounted for approximately five per cent of many houses' total production, while today 15 is a more common percentage. 4 (29) Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV The rosé champagnes that belong to the 5 (61) Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV luxury category are the best of the best in the world of champagne. More than 95 per cent of 4 (23) Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2004 rosé champagnes are products of the latter method, which allows better control over 5 (33) Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2004 the outcome, but neither of these methods can be raised above the other. Furthermore, their prices are often twice or three times as high as those of white champagne. Non-vintage TOP 10 placement Along with the increased popularity, the quality of rosé champagnes has risen 1 (9) Henriot Rosé NV significantly over the past few years. It seems that rosé champagne is here to stay. LaurentPerrier is one of the few Grande Marque 9 (46) Armand de Brignac Brut Rosé NV houses currently using the saignée method in rosé champagne production. Due to the low volumes, these wines may not even be mentioned on the producer's website. Rosé champagnes are available in a wide variety, 2 (25) Jacquart Brut Rosé NV ranging from fresh berry flavoured to highly developed, champagne-like wines. 53. 10 (84) Joseph Perrier Brut Rosé 2004 Rosé champagne is often approximately 20 per cent more expensive than white champagne, due not only to its trendy popularity but also to higher manufacturing costs. Whether rosé champagne is worth the extra price is a Overall question of style rather than of quality
These wines used to be called Crémant – for example, Mumm de Cramant was previously named Crémant de Cramant – but nowadays this term is reserved for sparkling wines made in other wine regions of France using the traditional method. Mumm and Varnier-Fannière, keep the pressure of Chardonnay champagnes slightly lower. The young wines can be aggressive, and therefore many producers, such as G. This is a very common style: for example, the Côte des Blancs region is almost entirely dedicated to this grape and, consequently, local grower-producers automatically concentrate solely on blanc de blancs. With ageing, Chardonnay soon develops a lovely, toasty and creamy aroma. Being an elegant and fruity grape, Chardonnay works very well by itself. H. At a young age, the wines may be markedly acidic and feature a linear, even bony structure. 54 Overall placement Blanc de Blancs Top 10 1 (6) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 94p 2 (10) Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 92p 3 (13) Pierre Gimonnet Special Club 2005 91p 4 (15) De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV 90p 5 (30) Comtes de Dampierre Prestige 1998 90p 6 (31) Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2002 89p 7 (37) Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV 89p 8 (42) G.H.Mumm Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs NV 88p 9 (45) A. Blanc de Blancs The term blanc de blancs refers to wines made exclusively from white grapes, so in champagnes the grape is, in most cases, Chardonnay. Margaine Cuvée Extra Brut NV 88p 10 (47) De Saint Gall Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV 88p Points
Although cooperatives account for just about 9 per cent of total Champagne sales, they process more than 50 per cent of all the Champagne produced, at one stage or another. Still, the direction is towards building strong brands of their own, and the most commercially successful ventures include Nicolas Feuillatte, Jacquart and Devaux. But there are many eager quality-concious cooperatives on the rise: the Champagnes of say Palmer & Co, De Saint Gall and Collet represent excellent value for money. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s Cooperative champagnes 55 Overall placement Cooperative Top 10 Points 1 (6) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 91p 2 (15) De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV 89p 3 (17) Palmer & Co Brut Réserve NV 89p 4 (24) Palmer & Co Amazone de Palmer NV 88p 5 (43) Palmer & Co Millésime 2005 88p 6 (54) Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2002 88p 7 (59) Jacquart Millésimé 2002 88p 8 (66) Dom Caudron Millésimé 2006 87p 9 (70) De Castelnau Millésimé Brut Magnum 1998 87p 10 (72) Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV 87p. There are a great many cooperatives in the region, but at the moment 67 of them make and sell Champagne under their own label. The 67 producing cooperatives sell Champagne under an astonishing number of different brand names – 2 234
Grower champagnes 56 As a counterforce to the champagne houses, a number of smaller grower-producers are making and selling their own products. Overall placement Grower champagnes Top 10 1 (13) Pierre Gimonnet Special Club 2005 91p 2 (34) Georges de la Chapelle Cuvée Nostalgie NV 90p 3 (35) A. However, due to the restricted resources of the grower-producers and the lack of a worldwide distribution network, only a small share of the growers sent their champagnes to this tasting. From an international perspective, growerproducers’ champagnes appear to be a secret closely guarded by the French, judging by the fact that only 12 per cent of these wines are exported. Many of the up-and-coming grower-producers have adapted a very natural approach to champagne-making, working intensely in their vineyards in order to maximise the quality of their products. Wine connoisseurs visiting with their eyes open will have a great opportunity to make interesting acquaintances. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut NV 90p 4 (44) Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier NV 89p 5 (45) A. Compared to the champagne houses, the growerproducers’ philosophy when it comes to winemaking is very different. The grower community in the Champagne area is undergoing constant changes, and there are still a number of ‘undiscovered’ quality growers in the region. Margaine Cuvée Extra Brut NV 89p 6 (63) Didier Ducos Brut Millésime 2006 89p 7 (64) Pierre Gimonnet Fleuron Blanc de Blancs 2005 89p 8 (65) Guy Charlemagne Brut Nature NV 89p 9 (67) Pierre Gimonnet Oenophile Blanc de Blancs 2004 88p 10 (74) Guy Charlemagne Mesnillésime Grand Cru 2004 88p Points. Grower-producers concentrate largely on producing terroir wines, i.e. Grower champagnes typically represent the taste profile of the wines from a particular vineyard, village or sub-region in the area. denoting the special characteristics that the habitat has bestowed upon the champagne, often by sticking to natural yeasts and minimising the sulphur dioxide content and the sweetening dosage. Names like Jacques Selosse have paved the way to fame for other grower-producers. Their wines are made from their own grapes, often grown in a small area, making the extensive blending practised by the champagne houses impossible. It goes without saying that not all grower champagnes are excellent – nor are all champagnes from champagne houses – but in recent years with the new generation of growers taking over the reins, a positive trend has emerged with regards to top-quality grower champagnes. Organic or biodynamic production is not unheard of, even if most growers practice viticulture according to the sustainable principles of lutté raisonnée
57 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s
Restaurant is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. Even though the food is excellent and variable by the day and season, the biggest pleasures are to be expected of the special ambiance created by Corinne and Anselme Selosse’s cordial hospitality. F a v o u r i t e d es. Its grand opening was in 2011. This building, which dates back to the 19th century, used to be the home of Champagne Bricout-Delbeck until 2003, and prior to that, Champagne Koch. Tastefully renovated countryside-chic is the style of the ten rooms named after different language versions of ”cheers”, such as Kampai, Salute and Skol. The intimate and cosy feeling continues in the restaurant, the kingdom of Stéphane and Nathalie Rossillon. Initially, due to a lack of cellar space, the Selosses purchased the abandoned château close to their own premises in the centre of the picturesque village of Avize. The cult following of the Selosse champagne house is sure to keep the place busy, but beyond it the beautiful townhouse, or Château Koch, has a long and colourful wine history spanning more than two centuries. Even though the Selosses were initially just after the cellar space, it soon dawned on Anselme and his wife Corinne that this was to become a boutique hotel and gastronomic centre. Hôtel Restaurant Les Avisés 59, rue de Cramant, 51190 Avize, France www.selosse-lesavises.com Hotel is closed the nights of Tuesday and Wednesday. •E r ’s • d ito P ic k Editor’s Pick Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Les Avisés Hôtel Restaurant Les Avisés – A must-do for all Selosse fans 58 For champagne aficionados Les Avisés hotel and restaurant is the place to be in the Côte des Blancs sub-region of Champagne. Room rates from 230 to 380 euros per night
C ha m pa g n e Fi n e E d i t o r ’ s P i c k d es t i n a t i o n s i n 59
•E r ’s • d ito P ic k 60 Fav o u r i t e d e s t i n at i o n s i n C
Today, this gem belongs to Italian Roberto Polito. The address is even ”Bellevue” – beautiful view. This peaceful yet luxurious property is the perfect place for a honeymoon or an intimate wedding. The 28 rooms all have modern luxuries. Relais & Châteaux Royal Champagne Bellevue, 51160 Champillon (Marne), France www.royalchampagne.com Fi n e E d i t o r ’ s P i c k n 61. C h a m pag n e Editor’s Pick Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Royal Champagne Royal Champagne – A small hotel with a big history Being Napoleon’s favorite stopover location on his way to Reims is what this Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant is what put this building on the map. What I love here the most are the impeccable views towards Epernay and the surrounding villages and their sea of vines. The unique ambiance of the old building now housing the gastronomic restaurant must be breathed in. The 400-year-old house has a long history, but it has only functioned as a hotel since 1970 when Champagne Mercier built the rooms and opened it to the public. The fact there are over 200 Champagnes on the wine list is a further incentive to come, as is chef Franck Fuch’s superb breakfast – which one should definately reserve time for. Champagne lovers favour it due to its central location within easy reach of Champagne’s main sub-regions
E N J O Y C H A M P A G N E L A U R E N T- P E R R I E R R E S P O N S I B LY.
“All my life I have sought the simplicity of a single line.” ANTOINE wATTEAU
The collection’s attractive champagne glass, The FIRST Champagne 77 M MP, was recently selected as the best glass for Prestige cuvée champagnes in an extensive test conducted by FINE Champagne Magazine. Launched in 2006 and now comprising 19 glass models, the The FIRST collection was born from the ambitious sommelier’s idea to create glasses whose design takes into account not only the origins and grape varieties of the wines, but also their level of maturity. Additionally, he runs his own wine shop in the St Germain quarter in Paris. In just a short time he turned the wine selection of the hotel’s restaurant, Le Cinq, into one of the most esteemed in the world, with 1,800 list items and a cellar of 60,000 bottles. The champagne glass designed by the world’s best sommelier Enrico Bernardo together with the famous Zwiesel 1872 crystal glass brand is a choice that no champagne lover should disregard. As a consequence I notified Zwiesel that the glasses should be made of lead-free crystal, while still being just as durable and clear as ordinary crystal glasses. In 2003, Bernardo was also preparing for the biggest challenge of his career so far: the World’s Best Sommelier Competition to be held in Athens. When practising, Bernardo noticed an issue related to aromas that became a concern when designing his own glasses. Since then he has opened another branch of Il Vino in Courchevel, and established the new Parisian restaurant Goust. Having no lead also makes the glasses lighter to Enrico Bernardo biography Enrico Bernardo, known as one of the best sommeliers in the business, has made a significant career for himself in the restaurant world. One of the main parts of his preparation for the contest was to train in the sensory evaluation of wines. At just 27 years of age he was the youngest-ever winner of the contest. The FIRST glasses became the pioneers in hand-blown, lead-free crystal stemware. In 2007, at the age of only thirty, Bernardo fulfilled another grand dream by starting his own restaurant, Il Vino, in Paris. This is exactly how the best glasses can open up champagne, bringing out its subtlest characteristics. MeritS: The Best Sommelier of the World (2004) The Best Sommelier of Europe (2002) The Best Sommelier of Italy (1996–97) The Best Sommelier of Lombardy (1996) Master of Port Italy (1995). We decided to start the Raise a Glass to Champagne series in order to identify the best champagne glasses. I ended up taking my plans to Zwiesel, because I knew they possessed very advanced glassmaking technology and because I knew their designer. In 2004 he achieved the highest merit of his competitive career by winning the World’s Best Sommelier title. I didn’t even know if that was possible, so I was relieved when after multiple tests we found the solution. The reason behind this turned out to be the lead used in crystal glasses. My vision was to create separate glasses for young and aged wines – glasses whose designs took into account the wines’ maturity and style, whether they were for example fruity, oaky, acidic or fresh. “The idea of designing a glass collection formed in 2003, when I thought of developing glasses for different types of wines. A good glass brings out the music in the champagne, so to speak. It is a concert hall whose excellent acoustics allow the audience to pick out even the slightest nuances in the music. FINE GLASS The perfect Glass for Champagne I The FIRST Champagne 77 M MP 2 Part t is impossible to fully enjoy champagne without a proper champagne glass. We will present glasses that can help you ensure the optimal enjoyment of different kinds of champagnes. “In my training I realised that many of the wines I tasted would oxidise surprisingly quickly – in just five or ten minutes – in the glass. I found out that the lead oxides in crystal glasses caused accelerated oxidation of wines. Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Bernardo wine 64 The glass series created through a collaboration between the World’s Best Sommelier 2004, Enrico Bernardo, and the German glass manufacturer Zwiesel 1872, entitled The FIRST by Enrico Bernardo, is highly regarded by professionals in the restaurant business. Having learnt the trade at the Grand Hotel in Stockholm and the world-renowned French restaurant Troisgros in Roanne, he ended up being involved in starting up the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. They were excited about the idea and we started working together in that same year,” Bernardo says
His favourite champagne experience from the glass in question is the Krug Vintage 1928. The First Champagne 77 m mp. “For champagne I ended up creating glasses of two different sizes. 65 hold, which adds to their elegance in enjoying wines,” Bernardo says. He says that the success of the glass series is thanks not only to Zwiesel’s know-how but also to his own substantial experience gained in several Michelinstarred restaurants and his interactions with their guests. Things to Remember when Serving Champagne Fi n e G l a s s The subtle aromas and flavours of champagne grow to be very complex during the wine’s two fermentation periods and a long ageing on the lees. a culture replete with fashion and chic design, and he believes that this is reflected in his visually appealing collection. In the bottle, their brisk acidity becomes rounded and a lot of the carbon dioxide in the drink is released. For many characterful prestige champagnes, serving in a white wine glass can also improve drinkability. We all know champagne is excellent as an aperitif, but it can also be a multidimensional drink. This means that not even a good glass can save a poor wine,” Bernardo points out. The smaller model is designed with fresh standard champagnes in mind, while the other one is for more complex prestige varieties. A good glass helps to bring out the wine’s soul – its typical aroma and origins. Excessive sparkling can be curbed through decanting, which gives the champagne’s own aroma more room. It is important to be aware, however, that a good wine glass will not only emphasise a wine’s best properties but also reveal its possible weaknesses or faults. This applies to all quality wines, whether they are affordable, well-made simple wines or highly valued premium wines. Bernardo emphasises the fact that champagnes behave similarly to other wines, however, which means that different glasses are needed to ensure the drinker gets the most out of them. A lightweight, elegant glass in which wine stays fresh for a long time sounds ideal especially for champagne. The technically superb glass is also attractive and stylish. He feels this has given him valuable expertise and an understanding of what is required of a good glass. Eventually we managed to develop the brilliant glass The First Champagne 77 M MP, which is the perfect glass for prestige champagnes such as older vintages of Krug or Bollinger R.D.,” Ber- nardo says. Most champagnes are opened at a very young – sometimes too young – age, which leaves out the most complex nuances from the taste. When champagnes are finally released to the market they are still angular and sharp, and require bottle ageing to mellow. This is why I decided to develop a large champagne glass combining the characteristics of a wine glass and a traditional flute. As the second fermentation takes place in a sealed bottle, the champagne develops carbon dioxide, and when the bottle is opened, the brusquely released CO2 can hide the drink’s subtler flavours – especially in younger champagnes. Having been born in Milan, the Mecca of fashion, Enrico Bernardo grew up in Technical specifications: THE FIRST Champagne 77 M MP Height 270 mm Diameter 76 mm Volume 365 ml “A high-quality wine glass is essential in order to experience the nuances and dimensions of an exquisite fine wine. The biggest challenge was in deciding the height of the bowl: I found that just one millimetre of difference made a noticeable difference in the taste. It is intended for prestige champagnes that need a sufficiently large bowl to open up and allows the user to admire the bubbles forming beautiful, long strings of pearls
But assuming that time by itself can explain the phenomenon would be to trivialise this single-vineyard wine’s dual personality. Today, the house belongs to Lanson–BCC’s portfolio and is managed by Charles Philipponnat, who is also the winemaker charged with the peculiar task of trying to tame the wild style of Clos des Goisses. He is the man who returned the. The simpler vintages seem to vary a bit less than the colossal giants, which teeter back and forward like a true manic genius. In blind tastings, many of us detect medicinal notes leaning towards echinacea in the youngest wines from this vineyard, while other times we’ll associate it with Salon’s citrusy, buttery and walnut bouquet. The Philipponnat family, owners of the award-winning vineyard, have been in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ since 1522. In 1935, the founder of the champagne house, Pierre Philipponnat, bought the 5.5-hectare vineyard, and created Champagne’s first clos wine in 1947. Why is it like that. Sometimes I don’t get it and ask myself whether I’ve overestimated its potential, only to wonder the next time how I could have underrated this uncut diamond. The most obvious explanation is that we are dealing with a “slow starter”; a real cellar wine that needs decades to fully unfurl its colourful peacock’s tail. COLUMN Richard Juhlin PHILIPPONNAT CLOS DES GOISSES VINTAGES 66 I always find this impressive world-class wine one of the most elusive and perplexing wines out there. All the vintages seem to have in common on a certain nutty, smoky, Bollinger-like aroma of grilled steak at the top of its development curve. It quite simply has too many completely different facets that stand out with different levels of strength at various times, pulling in opposite directions. I think an equally weighty explanation is that the wine has a paradoxical, almost schizophrenic character. Sometimes the rocky mineral quality is at the forefront, while at others the wine’s vegetable, grassy, almost blackcurrant leaf-like aspects hold back its masculine side to such an extent you’d think you were in the Loire
It was very obvious that the simple 2001 had the most linear development in that set. Slightly thin and polite beside the rumbling 2000 these days. Will outlive its competitors from that year. This phenomenon leads to there being highly diverse personal descriptions even when wine experts try to capture the vineyard’s true essence. 2001 Clos des Goisses 92 (92) Probably the best champagne of this vintage, with a nutty depth and obvious green terroir. Let your Goisses rest in the cellar until the autumn chill and use it to crown magnificent winter dinners with its deep, golden majesty. 1996 Clos des Goisses 93 (95) Ancient Bollinger barrels on the nose with walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and dark chocolate. Regardless of the vintage, remember always to decant Clos des Goisses and serve it with carefully considered food. Dark of colour and, strangely, more hotly masculine than the 99. As you can see, that was no light and airy spring menu, and to sip Clos des Goisses in the garden on a hot summer’s day would be just as wrong as taking a Christmas ham to the beach. Still clean and vibratingly fresh. The unique steep slope by the canal in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is planted with 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay, but most vintages contain 65 per cent Pinot Noir, as a small portion of the grapes end up in other cuvées. 1995 Clos des Goisses 92 (94) Only 2 800 bottles were produced so don’t hesitate if you catch one. Somewhat closed of aroma but exceptionally tight and chocolaty. Clos des Goisses Vintages 2003 Clos des Goisses 89 (92) One of the true giants of this vintage. Lately a little too oxidising and characterised by overripe, slightly botrytised grapes. If you have no idea what phase the wine is at, it is best to be sure and wait until the wine’s 20-year mark. 1997 Clos des Goisses 91 (92) Most 97s have been ripe for several years, but this wine won’t be quite ready until its twentieth birthday. No official release here. Quite reminiscent of the warm 2000 vintage, and with indications of a future resemblance with the 1976. Then the characteristic nuttiness and cakey tones will stand out in one way or another. If you lack the patience for that, invest in lesser-known vintages, which mature sooner. Sharp angular quality reminiscent of the explosive 75. Decanting a champagne can be tricky, as it is crucial to cool down the carafe to the same temperature as the bottle, and to have a very steady pouring hand so as not to lose too much of its sparkle. The first score denotes the quality when I first tasted the wine, while the score in brackets is the wine’s maximum score at full maturity. Impressive strength. Concentrated and a little old-fashioned. 1999 Clos des Goisses 92 (93) Unusually soft, caramely and polished style from the start, thanks to the soft and sweet charm of the vintage. Our chef Carl Ljung very skilfully combined veal, mushrooms, seaweed, turbot, puy lentils, duck liver and Comté fondue with these gastro-friendly wines. In some years, the house also produces a rare but unexciting still red from the crop. Rich, exotic character that is representative of the vineyard. 2000 Clos des Goisses 94 (95) I can remember like yesterday a wonderful experience I had among the vines on the slope that year. The following are some of my personal tasting notes. Now excitingly animalistic. Dry and a little unwieldy for a while, but a great Goisses for those who are around when it reaches its peak! Already creamier and more tempting, even though some bottles exude hyacinth smells and unbalance. A wine which really demonstrates the uniqueness of this plot. Simultaneously acid and closed. Fi n e J u h l i n wines into oak barrels, but it is very difficult to detect the influence of that move, as even the steel tank-fermented vintages develop an oak-like bouquet as they age. Majestic length and great drive. 2002 Clos des Goisses 89 (95) Misleadingly soft and inviting with lavishly sweet fruit and creaminess. Recently of an evening I brought together a small group of like-minded Clos des Goisses fans to taste the last seven vintages. Below the surface are walnut tones, a deep chocolaty indulgence and the seriousness of tobacco. In 2013 it is completely mature, with a buttery, nutty and tricky ripeness, like a great white Bourgogne from 1992. So young and so structured, at the same time soft but with good acidity. That is at the forefront, but there are also toasty notes, walnut and flower aromas and an impressive refinement right from the start. Slightly smoky and nutty with bright citrus and elderflower notes. I think timing is a key factor, even more so than usual, when enjoying Clos de Goisses. Delicious in my last tasting. For me, it is Champagne’s number one still white wine, together with Giraud’s Aÿ Blanc. 1998 Clos des Goisses 88 (91) An unusually direct and charming Goisses that is tempting with its perfect harmony and layers of intense and soft almond aromas in both the bouquet and the taste. Reminiscent of what the 86 was like at the same age. > 67. A serious flaw in the system, it seems. Roundly closed and long but highly drinkable. For the sake of precision, it might be proper to note that this, one of Champagne’s finest vineyards, is not a grand cru and only has premier cru status. Even rarer and much more exciting are the 200 bottles of still Chardonnay that Philipponnat produces each year for its own use
At the Millennium Tasting this characterful wine did not do itself justice. By now I have been able to enjoy several deliciously exotic bottles. The latest bottle was more one-dimensional, significantly simpler than before. 1986 Clos des Goisses 94 (94) It was at a lunch at the estate that its then manager convinced me that some champagnes really benefit from decanting. What will happen to it. The aftertaste was aristocratic. Unfortunately some bottles are already overripe. A barrage of hazelnut and chocolate notes hit my tongue. An undecanted and a decanted glass of the 86 proved incredibly different from each other. I am unsure of its future development as many 89s have suddenly gone downhill. One of the most elegant vintages ever. Naturally this is a wonderfully rich and monumental wine with a gigantic taste. 1982 Clos des Goisses 95 (96) The first times I tasted the 82, it made me doubt the greatness of the vineyard. People often prefer the simpler vintages of this wine, as the greater ones are a bit too demanding. Crisp and clean taste with a high-octane mineral quality. 1978 Clos des Goisses 94 (94) In this relatively weak year, this unique specimen stands out as brilliant. It’s very hard to say which way it will go. Instead it is only medium-bodied and delicate, with bready, toasty aromas and a fine, crispy fruitiness. What a dazzling wine! Huge aroma with flowery, youthful features and simultaneously nutty, older and more serious notes. 1979 Clos des Goisses 95 (95) 1988 Clos des Goisses 93 (94) I will never quite understand how Clos des Goisses behaves when it is young. The scent is so strong that it is difficult to discern its nuances, and I have to step away from the glass time and again before approaching it cautiously to try to capture its nature in the first second. A huge wine! 1976 Clos des Goisses 95 (95) In a fabulous year this fabulous vineyard could surely only produce a fabulous wine, one would think. Now I’m not so sure. Some bottles taste like a full-bodied Dom Pérignon 1980. The taste is a uniform tidal wave thick with. If that’s the case, you’ll enjoy this one! 1991 Clos des Goisses 93 (93) 68 GOISS Exciting bouquet with touches of petrol and Sauternes, in lovely harmony with sweet exotic fruits and the slightly sharp acidity of unripe grapes. The attack on the tongue is fresh and the fruits are very young. Very long aftertaste. The smell from the decanted glass reminded me a lot of Bollinger R.D., and had a great smoky, nutty and classically heavy Pinot bouquet. 1980 Clos des Goisses 1989 Clos des Goisses 93 (94) A very elegant wine with a graceful lightness and uplifting features. Henrik Arve, my best wine taster friend, considers this one of the greatest wines he has ever tasted. As the wine warms up in the glass, hazelnut and honeysuckle begin to dominate. Lustful and rich in honey, with a high syrupy concentration. The taste is deep as a well and vibratingly fresh. Coffee and hazelnut whirl past in the nose, together with snow and sea scents. Far from a typical Clos des Goisses, but that is of no consequence when it is just as captivating. It is just that it’s so rich it nearly oversteps the mark and trips over itself. I thought I detected some acidity over a foundation of concentrated fruits. CLOS DES 1994 Clos des Goisses 84 (87) 1985 Clos des Goisses 95 (96) Have not tasted it for several years. Experience has shown that all vintages become powerful packages as they grow old. What will happen in the cellar. 1992 Clos des Goisses 93 (93) A really creamy and delicious, light Clos des Goisses. 1990 Clos des Goisses 93 (95) This vintage of Clos de Goisses seemed great from the start. The wine was flowery and shy for several years before unfolding its peacock’s tail of flavours. The penultimate sample was smoky, but with a youthful touch. Currently it has a delicious creaminess and significant marmalade notes of peach, apricot and quince. The taste was very concentrated and rich. The bouquet is richly chocolaty, smoky and nutty. Exceptionally rich and good 91 with a chewy concentration that other wines from this year lack. Fully developed with a lot of fruit and an abundance of toasty aromas. Some bottles are actually medicinal with a taste of gooseberries. Drink it up. Unfortunately it has suddenly turned more muscular but also more tired. A certain question mark hangs over its future but the latest tasting proved it had found its place! 1983 Clos des Goisses 92 (92) A fascinating wine, whose smell indicates an old champagne but whose taste is still very youthful. It is as if botrytised grapes had taken the upper hand and the wine feels flat, reminiscent of a dessert wine. I was also greatly impressed by the colossal, creamy fruitiness, the complex interweaving of nuances from all ends of the champagne spectrum. Still waiting for the nuttiness. Unfortunate side note of throat lozenges. Less nutty than usual but very fine. Even this rarity, which was not officially released, must be stored for a really long time. The 88 is not as undeveloped and grassy as the 82 was at the same age. The latest one was a veritable cradle robbery. The wine easily handled its accompanying ox fillet with morel sauce. Long, modern, developed and elegant taste. Is that how it will develop. The long aftertaste was evident from the very start. In an extensive horizontal tasting of the top 20 1982s, Clos des Goisses and Salon stood out as the least developed wines. Experience has shown us countless times never to disregard a Clos des Goisses and always to give it huge amounts of time to mature
This vintage is a kind of key, as the wine’s magnificent maturity is relatively clear in it, while still maintaining some of the young, somewhat tricky aromas. Competing maritime, vegetable and meaty notes. The colour is pale, like a Krug or Cristal Rosé, and the bouquet is also similar to theirs with a creamy and strawberry-like base note. I wonder whether the wine will become any less overpowering in the future. When it had stood long in the glass, its special youthful aroma of grass and gooseberries appeared. Store long; this has enormous potential. The mousse was faint and the colour a beautiful gold with splashes of more elderly amber. Somewhat less impressive at the Millennium Tasting. The only bottle I have had access to was somewhat low in level and had only kept a thin ribbon of mousse. 1951 Clos des Goisses 90 (90) 1966 Clos des Goisses 97 (97) It was extremely enlightening and educational to taste the 66 and 64 side by side. Probably a 100-pointer on the other side of the Atlantic, but I look for a little more refinement for complete satisfaction. This is a creamy and youthful thing with a hypnotically seductive, bouquet. On the other hand, the wine benefits from the disgorgement date in its youthfully fresh and generously creamy taste. Brutally intense in an anything but populist manner. Presumably a dead vintage by now. A wine like a journey. Slightly coarser than expected now that maturity seems to have set in. A bottle straight from the estate is naturally always in excellent condition. Big, intensely chocolaty and well-rounded taste. Everything that was delicious in the 53 and 52 could be found here, too. Other clearly detectable nuances are orange blossom, sandalwood, cloves, eucalyptus and duck liver. This is definitely the richest and most flattering of the unbeatable trio. Fi n e J u h l i n sweets. That is the drawback with recently disgorged old wines. The latest bottle was more uniform and chocolaty than before. Unfortunately not quite as impressive once newly disgorged. 1955 Clos des Goisses 99 (99) A recently disgorged magnum was filled with some of the most delicate nuances to which my senses had ever been exposed. The difference I find is that the 55 has an added depth, an extra dimension that elevates my thoughts to religion and higher powers. Naturally direct from the estate, and disgorged two months prior to the tasting in question. 1953 Clos des Goisses 98 (98) Unfortunately I have not tasted this vintage straight from Philipponnat’s own cellar. Still very good, with a bouquet of nuts, old Riesling, oil and resin. Despite the pale colour and certain strawberry notes, this is a meaty and sturdy wine for large dinners. Highly concentrated and pleasant aftertaste. Otherwise reminiscent of the 79. A real duck-liver wine! One of the very last magnums left in the world. Extremely full, explosive and creamy taste with citrus notes. Grass and petrol do not yet harmonise with the fruit. 2002 Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé 85 (94) In some years, the house produces a rare and sought-after delicately coloured rosé with the skin contact method. It has the slightly gingery spicy note typical of the vineyard, as well as the youthful fruitiness bordering on passion fruit. The 66 is lighter and more slender, but it makes up for it with unsurpassable finesse and a euphoric toasty bouquet. One of the most beautiful champagnes in history. Elegant and inviting appearance with a very pale salmon colour. It maintains a good bite in the mouth and an impressive fullness, but oxidation is gradually bringing the aromatic spectrum closer to that of a Tokaji. Caressing taste with delicate aromas of white chocolate and honey. 1964 Clos des Goisses 97 (97) Actually somewhat closed in its bouquet, especially in comparison with the aromatic 66. 1999 Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé 93 (94) The first time a rosé wine was made from the front part of the prized slope, “La Dure”. 1959 Clos des Goisses 98 (98) Despite Pinot Noir being the dominating grape, it has a great resemblance with the 59 Salon. I can imagine the prices will be astronomical, as only 1,000 bottles were made. 2000 Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé 90 (93) A vintage in which Clos des Goisses had greater power than its neighbours. 69. A magnificent wine whose character is slightly softer and more buttery than the other 1950s vintages from the house. 1973 Clos des Goisses 92 (92) 1970 Clos des Goisses I have only tasted two murky, madeirised samples. I was instantly faced with a unique and fascinating aromatic spectrum stretching between extremes such as cedar, resin, eucalyptus, grass, grilled meat, gooseberry and gunpowder! After a while in the glass all three wines from the 1950s came to resemble one another with a fabulous, euphorically perfumed bouquet bordering on passion fruit. SSES Vintages 1975 Clos des Goisses 94 (94) Clos des Goisses is the champagne that has taken me the longest to get to know. 1971 Clos des Goisses 94 (94) 1952 Clos des Goisses 96 (96) Deliciously nutty and classic, but somewhat less concentrated than the best I have tried from the vineyard. The aroma is powerful with notes of molasses and tar under the strong foundation of browned butter. I tasted it blind beside five old cuvée champagnes from large houses and it was exceedingly clearly a monocru, with all the advantages that entails in terms of power, intensity and personality
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“Champagne is one of Wimbledon’s most enduring traditions. Lanson is served in the tennis club’s nine bars and hospitality areas but this year, to celebrate the 25th anniversary, Lanson’s Chef de Cave, Jean-Paul Gandon, also dug out old vintages from the cellars and gave the previous Wimbledon winners bottles from Fi n e E v e n t n o d e bl 73. “This may be the perfect opportunity for branding but the viewers also consume a lot of champagne on the grounds, usually from 15 000 to 25 000 bottles during the twoweek tournament,” Beavis sums up. Beavis has news to break, as it has just been agreed that Lanson will be the official champagne of Wimbledon for the next five years, too. For instance, Bollinger is sipped at Royal Ascot and Veuve Clicquot at the Polo Gold Cup, but few are as long-term as Wimbledon and Lanson. We have been the official partner for 25 years and now we can confirm this tradition and happy relationship will continue for at least five more years.” There were surely many rivals for the official supplier role, as prestigious sporting events such as Wimbledon are are perfect marketing opportunities for Champagne houses. im W ta Text: Essi Avellan MW At the elegant Lanson hospitality quarters, Paul Beavis, MD of Lanson International UK, treats his guests, the jet set of the English wine scene, to the newly launched Lanson White Label served in a large wine glass together with strawberries or lime in a summerly fashion
The audience’s darling, Spanish Nadal is challenged by an underdog, the Belgian Darcis, whose tireless efforts gradually gain him the spectator’s support and finally victory in three sets. The sports-crazy Brits have not seen a Briton win the Men’s Singles title for 77 years so a lot of pressure is mounted on Murray again this year. Paul Beavis Talking to Paul Beavis again after the match, he rejoices in Andy Murray winning his match against Benjamin Becker. And celebrations with Lanson boomed outside the grounds, too, with the specifically launched Wimbledon edition of Lanson Black Label dressed in a tennis shirt becoming a musthave for the festivities.. And Murray winning means yet more champagne will be consumed, according to Beavis. RJ_2 ”Champagne is one of Wimbledon’s most enduring traditions. Having sipped a glass of Lanson 1988, the victory vintage of Stefan Edberg and Steffi Graf, I head in to watch my chosen match, Rafael Nadal against Steve Darcis. He will surely be celebrating with Lanson, but just as certainly Nadal will be trying to get past the disappointment with a similar glassful. “As soon as Murray wins, the champagne bar gets incredibly busy! What we want to see is real Wimbledon fever!” And that is exactly what was to come, as the UK finally got another Wimbledon Men’s Singles champion when Andy Murray beat Novak Djokovic in the final after two weeks of eventful games. We have been the official partner for 25 years and now we can confirm this tradition and happy relationship will continue at least for five more years.” 74 their victory years, whenever a vintage champagne was produced
News and information is continually updated on the website and made available to members in 43 countries around the world. Membership in The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club gives you access to the on-line member pages – but it also includes you in a global group of people who truly love champagne and who can expect to bene t from more and more advantages as the club grows. The latter means that he awards the champagne an additional grade, where he estimates the potential greatness, with optimal aging. The database engine allows for di erent ways of searching for a champagne, such as alphabetically, by producer, top 100, etc. More than the sheer size of this vast database, its uniqueness also lies in Mr Juhlin’s vivid use of language and his ability to recognize and pinpoint not only the present but also the future state of the champagne at hand. As soon as Mr Juhlin tries a new champagne, his tasting notes are downloaded into the database and made available to club members. RJ_236x297_AD_Layout 1 2011-03-07 08.19 Sida 1 JOIN THE CLUB! Richard Juhlin, by many regarded as the world’s foremost champagne expert, has sampled and evaluated close to 7,000 champagnes. On the website, the member password will also give access to Mr Juhlin’s travel articles, descriptions of champagne producers, suggestions on where to dine, and much more. In several cities the member card already grants its bearer advantages at “champagne friendly” restaurants, special presentations of hard-to-find champagnes, online tastings, etc. In four Scandinavian cities there are also exclusive Richard Juhlin Champagne Bars, as well as annual Richard Juhlin Champagne Dinners o ered to members boasting the special black membership card. Join The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club at www.champagneclub.com for only 75 euro annually - and use the bonus code ’FINECHAMP’ for a VIP discount INFO@CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM | WWW.CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM. At www.champagneclub.com, members of The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club can login and, using a personal code, access Mr Juhlin’s unique digital library where all evaluated champagnes are listed, described and rated from 0 to 100
Furnished with maps, the book is also an opportunity for champagne lovers to discover the epicurean’s dream location for themselves. In her book, Avellan visits 50 of the most interesting producers in the wine region. Avellan opens doors to the region’s best restaurants, hotels and wine stores. In this issue, we feature her top tips for Aube.. 76 Champagne Discovering Champagne • Part 5 FINE Champagne is currently publishing extracts from Essi Avellan’s champagne book, Matka Champagneen (‘Discovering Champagne’)
But increasingly sought-after are its fine Chardonnays from the hills of Montgueux east of Troyes. Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e Discovering 77. Far apart but no less essential Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot Some 100 kilometres south-east from Épernay lies the district of Aube, or Côte des Bar. This area, closer to Chablis than the core of Champagne, is Champagne famous for its fruit-forward and fleshy Pinot Noir, with the most famous coming from the village of Les Riceys
The champagnes are generous and individual, although not particularly refined or streamlined. +33 (0)3 25 27 40 15 Production, bottles/year: 1 600 000 Cellar master: Michel Drappier Drappier receives guests from 8 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm Monday to Saturday. The builder of this champagne house, with its distinct air of a family business, was the charming André Drappier, who is still involved in running it alongside his son Michel. In character, Drappier differs from the other champagne houses with its mellow, fruity palate, which is strongly dominated by Pinot Noir. The first wine, from the catastrophic vintage of 1974, was never marketed, but Grande Sendrée has been made since 1975 and has long been known as the best champagne from Aube. that he decided to become a winemaker. Charles de Gaulle, who used to live in the vicinity in the 1960s, was a regular customer of the estate, and Drappier launched a cuvée in his honour in 1990. For this he earned the nickname Père Pinot, or Father Pinot. These days, the variety accounts for three-quarters of all the vineyards in Aube, and the region is known specifically as a producer of full-bodied and fruity Pinot Noir. The wine that comes from the more than 70-year-old Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines is deep and intense – a highly gastronomical champagne. The label’s wines come in sizes ranging from 37.5 cl to the gigantic 30-litre Melchizedek, produced using traditional bottle fermentation methods. Both Drappiers – the highly experienced André and the dynamic leading figure Michel – are great guides to the champagnes of the Aube region. André gave him permission to create such a wine from the Les Cendrées vineyard in the same year Michel Drappier on talon dynaaminen johtohahmo. Drappier also specialises in large bottle sizes. Tastings are free for individuals but cost EUR 5 per person for larger groups. Of Drappier’s 55 hectares, 45 are located in the estate’s home village of Urville, Bar-sur-Aube. The ripe fruits of Aube really come into their own in rosés. The apple didn’t fall too far from the tree, as the dynamic Michel has successfully continued managing the house in an innovative and entrepreneurial vein. André created the Carte d’Or brand with its yellow label, which became the hallmark of the company, in 1952. Previously, this southern part of Champagne used to grow mainly Gamay grapes, but Georges Collot, grandfather of today’s leading figure Michel Drappier, started planting Pinot Noir. Champagne drappier V 78 isiting Drappier one becomes instantly aware that this house is the clear number one, best-known producer in the area. The pleasant and unusual cellar building and the reception rooms provide an excellent setting for receiving guests. Since 2004, Drappier has also produced the Quattuor, a blend of four white grapes – Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Blanc Vrai (Pinot Blanc) and Chardonnay. Personally, I am even more drawn to the Grande Sendrée Pinot Noir Rosé version, made since 1990. Since 1968, Drappier has made its rosés using the challenging saignée method, rather than blending. The house’s Rosé Brut is an excellent standard champagne, while the Grande Sendrée Rosé offers brilliant value for money, i Champagne Drappier NM www.champagne-drappier.com rue des Vignes, 10200 Urville tel. It is known for, among other things, bringing the Pinot Noir grape to the region. especially in comparison with other single-vineyard champagnes. By the tender the age of 15, Michel had the idea of making a single-vineyard fine wine. Cellar tours must be booked in advance, but wines can be tasted and bought ex tempore as well. Drappier is by far the major producer in Aube. The estate also rents 40 hectares of vineyards and buys grapes from another 40 hectares, located not only in Aube but also in the Marne. Most other producers make their wines in ordinary or Magnum bottles and only transfer them into special bottle sizes after recorking.
For an SO2-free wine, the Sans Soufre is excellent, with none of the signs of premature oxidation which are typical of these wines. A long-term project at Drappier, in other words minimising the use of sulphur dioxide in champagne production, culminated in 2008 with the launch of their Brut Nature Sans Soufre. Quattuor NV 86 p. • Grande Sendrée Rosé 2000 90 p. Recorked four months earlier, this wine had already developed towards a spicier and less fruity style. All of the house’s cuvées have less sulphur dioxide than usual, but this version, produced entirely without added SO2, is a true rarity in the Champagne region. It is recorked after around three years of cellar ageing, but no sweetening dosage is added. Champagne brut nature pinot noir sans soufre nv brut nature pinot noir sans soufre nv 87 p. Carte d'Or Magnum 1982 87 p. The Drappier cellar contains millions of bottles of champagne.. • Rosé Brut NV 89 p. Aromatic and rich, baked, tropically fruity, caramelly and spicy. • Blanc de Blancs Signature NV 87 p. The opulent, luscious taste is fruity and ends in a very dry nutty aftertaste. Millésime Exception 2002 88 p. • Brut Nature Pinot Noir NV 87 p. All the Drappier labels have good information on the recorking date, so it is easy for consumers to follow the wines’ ageing. This version develops quicker than the ordinary Brut Nature, but although it becomes rather different in style, it is still enjoyable when aged. The estate produces two wines from the same Pinot Noir batche, the Brut Nature Sans Soufre and the Brut Nature, and it is interesting to taste them side by side, as their only difference lies in the use of sulphur. Style: Deep, clearly developed lemon-yellow colour. Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e R € 29 C € 29 Serving temperature: 8 °C Drinkability: 0—1 years Grapes: Pinot Noir 100 % 79 Carte d'Or NV 85 p. • Grande Sendrée 2004 88 p. • Charles de Gaulle 2004 89 p. Wine production: Fermented in steel tanks, the wine is a blend of grapes from two vintages. Sulphur dioxide, used as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent in wines, causes allergic reactions in some people, so the Sans Soufre may be a good choice for sensitive champagne-lovers. The wine undergoes complete malolactic fermentation. The wine develops quicker and less predictably than the ordinary Brut Nature, however, and Drappier does recommend that it be enjoyed within one year of recorking
• Brut Rosé NV 83 p.. Our visit begins with a look at the three-hectare vineyard named Le Bressoire, located next door, where Michel Jacob has adopted some of the methods of organic farming without moving entirely to organic production. +33 (0)3 25 29 32 58 Production, bottles/year: 100 000 Cellar master: Michel Jacob Serge Mathieu is open for visits by appointment. • Tête de Cuvée Select NV 87 p. The open, fruity bouquet has notes of zesty red berries, peaches and green apple. Time-wise, 90 per cent of the work done at the estate takes place outside, with the vines, and only ten per cent is in the cellar. In the cellars the vintage wines are sealed using crown caps that let as little oxygen through as possible, in order to maximise freshness and fruitiness. The Mathieu family has grown wine in the region since the mid-1700s, but their own production did not start until 1970. Wine production: The must pressed in a Bucher press with a capacity of 8 000 kilogrammes ferments into wine in steel tanks and glazed metal tanks, under controlled temperatures. The recorking date is not displayed on the label, but it is printed on the cork. The Brut Rosé, made by blending, is the house’s weakest link, because the addition of 20 per cent red wine makes it heavy. The style is rich, mouth-fillingly fruity and not very streamlined or complex, but distinctively clean and straightforward. i Champagne Serge Mathieu RM www.champagne-serge-mathieu.fr 6, rue des Vignes, 10340 Avirey Lingey puh. The standard champagne Tradition is a voluptuous and uncomplicated 100 per cent Pinot Noir. A higher dosage than that of the estate’s other wines, 10.4 g/l, makes this champagne highly enjoyable upon launch. Mathieu lets its wines rest for over six months after recorking. Serge Mathieu’s daughter Isabelle and her husband Michel Jacob run the estate together. The code 1006, for example, indicates that recorking was done in June 2010. 89 p. Their 11 hectares of vineyards are all located within a one-kilometre radius of the main building. Very few processes are conducted on the wines in the cellar, as Mathieu avoids cold stabilisation, for example. The dosage is 10.4 g/l. Tradition Pur Pinot Blanc de Noirs NV 85 p. Champagne serge mathieu S 80 erge Mathieu’s positive energy and personality are already evident on the estate’s website, and the same playful and unpretentious style can be found in the renovated reception rooms. The vintage wine has much more depth and intensity than the Tradition. The classic vintage of 2004 led to fresh and energetic wines. Serge Mathieu ages its vintage champagnes on lees for at least five years, which is a suitable period for the ripe and fruity character of Aube wines. The Serge Mathieu cellar has no oak barrels, serge mathieu millésime 2004 because Jacob feels that a woody taste masks the wine’s fruity character. Wines can be bought at the estate. The wine is not cold stabilised prior to bottling. The Brut Prestige is also a blend of two vintages, but as a more aged wine with 30 per cent Chardonnay, it is lighter and more refined. Style: Pale lemon-yellow colour with a light peachy tinge. • Cuvée Prestige NV 86 p. Investments into topquality corks, which have double layers of natural cork at the base, have borne fruit: Jacob estimates that of the house’s annual production of 100 000 bottles only a minimal 6–12 bottles have cork taint. The Select Brut Tête de Cuvée is currently 80 per cent Chardonnay, but Mathieu’s aim is to make clearer distinctions between its cuvées by increasing the proportion in future to 100 per cent. Serge is still involved, but with Sophie having worked at Mathieu since 1987 and Michel since 1998, the generation shift has been smooth for all those involved. The second fermentation and five years of bottle ageing take place in the cellars. A Chardonnay from Aube will most probably be an interesting oddity, even though it is among Pinot Noirs that Mathieus are at their best. Typically for Aube, the focus is on Pinot Noir, which is complemented by one-fifth of Chardonnay vines. The vineyards immediately surrounding the reception area can be visited for further familiarisation with the estate’s growing principles. R € 34,50 C € 34,50 A € 34,90 Serving temperature: 8 °C Drinkability: 0—7 years Grapes: Pinot Noir 100 % The voluptuous Aube Pinot Noir is Serge Mathieu’s trademark. Full malolactic fermentation makes the wine chemically stable, which is useful because Mathieu wines have very low sulphur dioxide contents. The liqueur d’expedition used in the dosage is very young, providing a further injection of vitality. Very well-balanced and drinkable. The main aim is to respect the soil and the vines, and to find their natural balance. For a 100 per cent Pinot Noir, the structure is surprisingly elegant, as it is broad and meaty without any heaviness
Champagne aube vineries and producers 1 Champagne Drappier NM 2 Champagne Serge Mathieu RM 3 4 5 Troyes Cathedral Musée d'Art Moderne La Boisserie – Charles de Gaulle’s home, grave and museum Restaurants 6 Brasserie Illustre 7 La Toque Baralbine HOTELs 8 Hôtel Le Champ des Oiseaux 9 Hôtel La Maison de Rhôdes 10 B&B Domaine de la Creuse Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e sights 81
Musée d'Art Moderne Place Saint-Pierre, 10000 Troyes tel. The menu includes all the best friends of champagne, from scallops to lobster and duck liver. This modern art museum was conceived when Pierre and Denise Levy donated their extensive art collection to the French state in 1976. Besides wines from that label, the wine list has champagnes from local small-scale producers and some cuvées from the big houses. Breakfast is included. 82 “The village of Colombey-les-Deux-Églises, located just a 15-minute drive from our champagne estate, was home to Charles de Gaulle and definitely worth a visit. La Toque Baralbine 18, rue Nationale, 10200 Bar-sur-Aube tel. La Toque Baralbine, in the centre of Bar-surAube, represents surefire, classic French cuisine under the leadership of Daniel Phélizot. De Gaulle bought the estate of La Boisserie in 1934 and lived there until his death in 1970. +33 (0)3 25 27 20 34 www.latoquebaralbine.fr.st Domaine de la Creuse has five rooms, each individually designed. +33 (0)3 25 76 26 80 Open daily 10 am–1 pm and 2 pm–6 pm, except Mondays and bank holidays. De Gaulle was a regular customer of ours and we have even dedicated one of our champagnes to him. Michel Drappier, CEO at Champagne Drappier B&B Domaine de la Creuse 10800, Moussey tel. I recommend a visit to the legendary statesman’s house, tomb and museum.” Hôtel La Maison de Rhôdes 18, rue Linard Gonthier, 10000 Troyes tel. Saint Pierre got his, but Saint Paul’s was never finished. La Maison de Rhôdes has a classy restaurant, although the centre and its restaurants are just a ten-minute walk away. The cosy village of Colombey-les-Deux-Églises attracts tourists thanks to its most famous inhabitant, General Charles de Gaulle. +33 (0)3 25 82 62 70 Open Tuesday to Saturday 9 am-12 pm and 1 pm-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-12 pm and 2 pm-5 pm. Like many others, it was never finished and only has one spire. Located side by side in a small street close to Troyes Cathedral, the hotels Le Champ des Oiseaux and La Maison de Rhôdes share the same owner and a similar concept. Neither hotel includes breakfast in its pricing. +33 (0)3 25 80 58 50 www.champsdesoiseaux.com Michel Jacob, Cellar Master at Champagne Serge Mathieu The museum’s specialities are its collections of African and Oceanian art. Sights – Aube Troyes Cathedral (Cathédrale SaintPierre-et-Saint-Paul de Troyes) Place Saint-Pierre, 10000 Troyes tel. The food is youthful and simple, with a slight hint of the international. La Boisserie (Charles de Gaulle’s home, grave and museum) 52330 Colombey-les-Deux-Églises Open daily except Mondays, high season (1 April–30 September) 10 am–6:30 pm, low season (1 October–30 March) 10 am–1 pm and 2 pm–5:30 pm. Large Carte d’Or bottles from Drappier give the finishing touches to the décor. +33 (0)3 25 40 00 88 Open daily, except for dinner on Sundays. Aube Illustre is a popular modern brasserie, whose pleasant and stylish ambience attracts both locals and tourists. There are also apartments for EUR 230. The walls are suitably painted in a bright-yellow hue reminiscent of the region’s most famous producer, Drappier. +33 (0)3 25 43 11 11 www.maisonderhodes.com Closed between January-February. Prices range from EUR 110 to 125 for two. Hotels – Aube “My favourite place to visit in Troyes is, without doubt, its fabulous museum of modern art.” Hôtel Le Champ des Oiseaux 20, rue Linard Gonthier, 10000 Troyes tel. Its location on the charming pedestrian street of Champeaux, right in the heart of the old town, is excellent. Closed between 22 December and 5 February. +33 (0)3 25 41 74 01 www.domainedelacreuse.com Restaurants – Aube Brasserie Illustre 8, rue Champeaux, 10000 Troyes tel. The handsome Gothic cathedral of Troyes was under construction from the thirteenth to the seventeenth century. The cathedral’s treasury is open in summer. The charming and characterful Domaine de la Creuse, run by the Le Borgne family in the village of Moussey, just ten minutes from the centre of Troyes, is a great place to stay for those who enjoy rural charm and a peaceful atmosphere.” Isabelle Mathieu, Champagne Serge Mathieu. These stylishly and individually decorated boutique hotels are definitely the best places to stay in Troyes. Price-wise, Champ des Oiseaux offers rooms for between EUR 135 and 190 per night. La Maison de Rhôdes has a price range of EUR 165 to 220, and around EUR 250 for apartments and suites
I write about my chosen champagne in greater detail. At this point I want to draw attention to the fact that each visit is unique. I did my best to formulate a comprehensive catalogue of champagnes of different styles and prices, ranging from 15 to more than 200 euros. I also offer production volume figures and the name of the cellar master. 84 Top producer Contact details and information concerning visiting arrangements and opening hours are supplied to make it easier to organise a visit. Firstly, the glass rating refers to the general quality of the house’s champagnes: I have awarded between one and five glasses. For each wine, I give the producer’s recommended retail price and, if applicable, the price directly from the cellar. Second, I have given a star rating (one to five stars) to the organisation, setting and content of the visit to the estate, as well as the personnel and their language skills. Top visit Excellent visit Good visit Average visit Excellent producer Quality producer Average producer Below-average producer Basic visit I have awarded a star rating to restaurants as follows: Top-class restaurant Excellent restaurant Quality restaurant The price level of each restaurant is classified as follows: Expensive restaurant, menu over 50 euros Mid-priced restaurant, menu 25–50 euros Inexpensive restaurant, menu under 25 euros Average restaurant Basic restaurant I have awarded a star rating to hotels as follows: Luxury hotel High-class hotel Quality hotel Average hotel The price level of the hotels (overnight stay including breakfast) is classified as follows: Expensive hotel, rooms over 180 euros Mid-priced hotel, rooms 90–180 euros Inexpensive hotel, rooms under 90 euros Basic hotel Vintage tables Vintages are also given a star rating, as follows: Top vintage Excellent vintage Average vintage Ordinary vintage Poor vintage R Recommended retail price C Cellar price. I also provide some background information on the estates and their protagonists, and provide an overview of the product selection. Key to symbols Winery Presentations I have rated each wine estate in two ways. These details may change, however, so I recommend checking in advance with the estate, either on its website or by email. the wine that shows the producer at its best or that provides the best introduction about the house. My evaluations are based on my own limited visits to the estates, so there may be surprises – both positive and negative. Favourite Champagne The second part of each presentation is reserved for my favourite champagne, i.e. These ratings are provided at the top right-hand corner of each estate’s presentation page. I give the essential details of each house, listing reasons for visiting it and tasting its champagnes on location. No rating is available for the estates that do not accept guests
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Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n 87 Text: Jaana Rinne Photos: Ralf Örn Capturing the soul of Istanbul is not easy. You have to stop, take your time, taste, watch and listen. Approaching slowly, you may find the chaotic city surrendering and revealing its soul – a soul that is sweet, salty, ancient and modern.
Parked in the middle of a huge square are dozens of yellow taxis. The various layers of life are laid bare, and for now at least one is still permitted to express opinions freely. The Parisianstyle parks, the narrow Roman alleys or the counterculture that is more reminiscent of Barcelona. On my first morning the soul theme sounds somewhat ridiculous, when the conversation centres around politics. At 10 a.m. I am wearing an Italian trench coat and other, much lighter clothes. Often the first floors of a building are fine, but the roof is on the point of collapse – or vice versa. Inside it is warm and the waiter smiles in a friendly manner. T 88 he first impression of Istanbul is chaotic. Womanhood may be veiled here, but the architecture is naked. At ten in the morning I already spot some headscarves in the district of Beyoglu. One shouldn’t really mix politics into lyrical travel reporting, but the current demon- strations are impossible to ignore. That all sounds very nice, but it is all surface glitz. Amid the hubbub rises the Marmara Pera Hotel. the market sellers are still rubbing the sleep from their eyes. An older man is toying with prayer beads, while younger ones discuss the previous evening’s events. A few more can be seen outside the Grand Bazaar and spice market. The Parisian-style parks, the narrow Roman alleys or the counterculture that is more reminiscent of Barcelona. Judging by their eyes, they are smiling. They spoke of genial people, delicious food, the charm of the ancient time Soulful of sultans, and the art galleries and clubs of the modern city. It is 11 pm in Beyoglu, and shadows slither against the black walls. Many say that the use of headscarves has already increased and that the models for female coverings are taken from neighbouring Arab countries. Yes, the kitchens are open; what would you like. Elsewhere, a pair of sisters hold hands. I am told that the legacy of the founder of the Republic of Turkey in 1931, the statesman Kemal Atatürk who supported a strict division between religion and state, may be at risk. The conservative party in power is growing in popularity, and the citizens fear that political leaders will soon be demanding hijab for girls. The dish is as tempting as the street view is off-putting. The spice bazaar is an excellent venue for that. Half an hour later this midnight cowboy serves me an unforgettable kebab from a decorative silver platter. The lamb kebab, nestled among pitta bread pieces beneath a thick tomato sauce and white yoghurt, welcomes me to this city of contradictions. The weather report forecasts rain and, just to make sure, a wind is howling outside which sounds violent enough to uproot small trees. The time for vociferous selling will come later; for now, most clients are still sleeping in their homes and hotels.. The temperature is 12 degrees Celsius and certain Estonians in wool overcoats make no attempt to hide their smugness. Before my trip I asked some Istanbul fans what they thought was best about the city. Rolling their eyes in wonderment, my friends shook their heads. Come morning, reality once again rears its ugly head. I want to get in deeper – into the soul of Istanbul. Before my trip I asked some Istanbul fans what they thought was best about the city. The one that reels like a whirling dervish on the streets of the metropolis, hidden beneath all the western influences. A mother and daughter veiled in black hurry along the pedestrian avenue Istiklal Caddesi
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The smell of sweets, one of the main smells of the city, wafts on the shores of the Bosphorus. They have stood here, sleepy and chilled, over the winter, just like their sellers. Turkish delight is an essential part of local life. Sweet It is in the spice bazaar that I first become aware of Istanbul’s essential colours and shapes. Commerce runs through the veins of this port city. Doing nothing is a favourite pastime in Istanbul. Next, I must have something savoury. Spices from saffron yellow to chilli red, from jet-black pepper to jeera. Viewed from this luxury dwelling, Istanbul is a horn of plenty whose delights can be sampled sensually and slowly like a baklava. Eating sweets has been fashionable ever since the time of the sultans. Flour billows in the air at the heart of the baklava factory and clings to the workers’ eyelashes. What was once Constantinople has always been home to trading and given birth to culture, entertainment and enjoyment. 91. The main artery that traverses Istanbul is the Strait of Bosphorus, along which goods have travelled between continents over several centuries. “Eat sweet, talk sweet”, people say in Istanbul and retreat of an afternoon to their tearooms and cafés to enjoy baklava, lokum and other delicacies replete with honey and nuts. Güllü’s showbiz gestures relax to something more businesslike when he enters the small sweet factory. Here it is hidden – it evades you and finally melds into the grey, tumultuous cityscape. The products of the city’s most celebrated baklava shop, Güllüoglu, carry in them all the longing of the protagonists of a love story. The owner, Cevdet Güllü, is a local celebrity interviewed by people from all around the world. The thin layers of phyllo pastry of baklava contain so much fat and pistachio nut that they will saturate the senses of the most unrequited of lovers. Surprisingly, the spices have no smell at all. In the marble yard of the Four Seasons on Bosphorus Hotel it is possible to shelter in a small five- star bubble that allows you to be simultaneously as near to and as far from Istanbul as possible. Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n waterside, in tearooms, cafés and Besiktas mosques. It breathes the sea air, returns from distant harbours rich with new experiences, and lies down on beaches to do nothing. Known as keyif, it is best practised on the Bosphorus. The restless soul settles down by the The resplendent history of three empires – Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman – is evident on the shore of the Bosphorus in the form of sultans’ palaces, treasures in art museums and beautiful minarets. I immediately get a sense of the soul of Istanbul on the strait, which stretches from the bottom of the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea and divides Istanbul into its European and Asian halves. At the Grand Bazaar, history has been woven into thick wool rugs and extra fine silk carpets
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Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n Modern The pedestrian avenue of Istiklal Caddesi reaches from the shore to Taksim Square. intends to familiarise guests with surprising and time-honoured dishes. Children love its gloomy nature. Muslims do not look favourably upon the dancers who entertain guests at the tower in the evenings, bellies gyrating before the 360-degree view of the city. The tower still arouses strong emotions in the city’s inhabitants. Kiva considers it its cultural duty to collect traditional recipes. According to legend, in 1638 one Hezârfen Ahmed Çelebi built himself a primitive pair of wings and flew from the tower to Üsküdar, across the Bosphorus. It has been the scene of forbidden kisses, but it is also a watchtower from which fire wardens have helplessly followed the progress of flames devastating some of the city’s wooden houses. One such story is that of the Galata Tower. People here spend at least two hours per day in traffic. 95. Savoury To find my savoury meal I have to travel by car. Taste excursions to the Turkish countryside have generated exotic flavour combinations and, among other things, a green juice whose recipe Executive Chef René Redzepi of the world’s top restaurant, Noma, brought with him from Kiva to Copenhagen. The top landing is perfect for mock sabre fights and imagining oneself as the master of Istanbul. Close to that square is the Kayra Wine Center, established in 2005. At the foot of the tower, Restaurant Kiva, which specialises in traditional Ottoman cuisine, delights friends of good food with tasty fare. The owner, sitting at the head of a long table, At the foot of the tower, Restaurant Kiva, which specialises in traditional Ottoman cuisine, delights friends of good food with tasty fare. They are full of stories. This passion keeps the owner on the road for one half of each month. The tower, shaped like a witch’s hat, was built in 1349. With a mission to nurture Turkish wine culture, the centre has many activities beyond producing wine. Known as the Tower of Christ by the Genoese, it used to belong to the walls that surrounded the autonomous Genoese colony of Galata. From a car there is plenty of time to watch the metropolis with its 13.6 million people and its division into countless districts, villages and shores. For centuries this was the highest tower in the whole city, and it still dominates the skyline north of the Golden Horn. It calls itself “the modern incarnation of the former Turkish tobacco and spirits monopoly and the next generation in wine”
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97. wine, which is made from a blend of local Öküzgözü and Bo?azkere grapes. A winemaker at Kayra, the Irish-American Daniel O’Donnell, has resurrected the old buzba. Wine-growing is not the easiest thing in a Muslim community, but according to the Encyclopaedia of Wine, it was done in Eastern Anatolia as long as 8 000 years ago. There is a wine library, tastings and events, as well as a restaurant, Mimolett, where one can sample French-Turkish delicacies and the best Turkish wines. Ben Johnson writes that if the vineyards laid down by Noah on the slopes of Mount Ararat were truly the first in the world to be planted, then Turkey can genuinely claim to be the birthplace of winemaking. Tasting it, one is transported back to sunrise by the Bosphorus and a little bit closer again to the complex soul of Istanbul. Herodotus (484–425 BC), who was from Bodrum on the Aegean Sea, described extensive wine trading between Eastern Anatolia and Mesopotamia on the Tigris River. At the start of the twentieth century, the founder of the modern Republic of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, hired two French experts to revitalise Turkey’s 6 000-year-old wine trade. > Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n Kayra Wine Center calls itself “the modern incarnation of the former Turkish tobacco and spirits monopoly and the next generation in wine”. Archaeological documents indicate that the top echelons of Anatolian society enjoyed wine as early as 3800 BC. It lets guests learn about wine and meet fellow oenophiles
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SACHEZ CONSOMMER ET APPRÉCIER AVEC MODÉRATION.. CHAMPAGNE COUSU MAIN DEPUIS 1921 L'ABUS D'ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ
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The wrist and pocket watches produced by the renowned company are timeless timepieces, whose most outstanding examples fetch millions of dollars at the world’s leading auction houses. Fi n e L i f e s t y l e 101 Text: Petri Nevalainen Photos: Patek Philippe P atek Philippe is perhaps the finest example of Swiss watchmaking. This was the case in December 2012 at Christie’s in Geneva, where the platinumcased Patek Philippe 2499/100 watch from 1987, once owned by the world-famous guitarist Eric Clapton was up for bidding. The hammer price was 3.6 million US dollars. A Patek Philippe is an admired and desired classic in the world of watches.
The “Ref. This despite the fact that due to their small size they are rather more difficult to spot than, say, a red Ferrari screeching up to the M onte Carlo Casino. A ntoine Norbert de Patek) and the clockmaker Franciszek (François) Czapek, both Polish migrants, decided to start manufacturing watches in Geneva, Switzerland. Clapton’s watch still only reached one-third of the highest-ever figure paid for a Patek Philippe, however. In 1839, the businessman Antoni Patek (a.k.a. Its impressive repertory was finally surpassed in 1989 – naturally by Patek Philippe itself. The watches are investments and collectors’ items, but also items that are used. The geographical location was optimal, as the Swiss had been world-renowned for their watchmaking for several centuries. Many knowledgeable experts consider Patek Philippe’s pocket watches and wristwatches to be the world’s best and most estimable timepieces. Just like supercars and luxury yachts, Patek Philippe watches are made to be seen. The 24 special functions of the watch include a perpetual calendar, a moon phase display and a star chart. The new record-breaking watch was named Calibre 89 and included a prodigious 33 functions. On the cover of the first instalment, the guitarist is pictured holding a pocket watch – but is it a Patek Philippe. The luxury watchmaker’s roots reach deep into the European soil. Naturally, competition was fierce, but there was still room for more highquality watches.. Among wristwatches, the label’s most renowned flagship has been the Sky Moon Tourbillon. Many knowledgeable experts consider Patek Philippe’s pocket watches and wristwatches to be the world’s best and most estimable timepieces. Patriarch of Horology 102 T he Clapton case is especially interesting because his two greatest hits albums from the 1980s were named Time Pieces, referring to pieces of music written at different times, as well as to watches. In 1999, the gold pocket watch “The Supercomplication”, dating from the early 1930s and belonging to the collection of the banker Henry Graves, was auctioned by Sotheby’s in New York. The final bid was an astonishing USD 11 million. This price was surpassed by a gilt chronograph sold at auction in Geneva in 2010 for USD 5.5 million. Some politicians and celebrities are known to remove their watches before greeting their supporters and fans at close quarters – presumably to prevent the valuable items from being pilfered by lightfingered hand-shakers. The Supercomplication was long considered the cusp of Patek Philippe’s achievements, thanks to its functions and mechanical complication. 5002” tourbillon was auctioned by Sotheby’s Hong Kong for USD 1.5 million five years ago
Fi n e L i f e s t y l e The world’s first watchmakers’ association, the Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva, was established in 1601. 103 Among wristwatches, the label’s most renowned flagship has been the Sky Moon Tourbillon.
104 Some Patek Philippe 2013 models
The first members of the Stern dynastyto be in charge of Patek Philippe were the brothers Charles and Jean. Philippe’s invention won a Gold Medal at the French Industrial Exposition of 1844. 105 The inventor did not stop there, however. The history of exceptional Swiss horology had begun in the mid1500s, during the Calvinist Reformation. In 1932 Patek Philippe was sold to the Stern family, who had until then manufactured top-quality dial plates for other Swiss watchmakers. Fi n e L i f e s t y l e Philippe’s first great innovation, presented in 1842, was a mechanism, located beneath a crown-shaped knob at the top of the watch, which allowed the watch to be wound by hand. Czapek had previously left the partnership to work by himself. The company now known as Patek Philippe was properly established in 1851, when Patek partnered up with a multitalented and inventive French clockmaker named Jean-Adrien Philippe, whom he had met a few years earlier. Philippe’s first great innovation, presented in 1842, was a mechanism, located beneath a crown-shaped knob at the top of the watch, which allowed the watch to be wound by hand. After that, Jean-Adrien Philippe continued at the helm of the factory until 1891, when his son Joseph Emile and his partner took over. Antoni Patek died in 1871. Previously clocks and watches had to be wound with a separate key. This lightweight model with a wrist strap did not achieve proper fame until the mass production of wristwatches began in the twentieth century, but its origins are indelibly linked to the history of Patek Philippe. Swissborn and immigrant clockmakers worked ceaselessly to develop new functionality for their watches. The world’s first watchmakers’ association, the Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva, was established in 1601. The new theology forced goldsmiths and jewellers to focus on clock-making, because the former demonstrations of their skill – jewels – were no longer permitted in public. Patek-Philippe collaboration Initially the watches made in Geneva were one-off items, but by 1790 the production volume was 60 000 per year. A competitor to the traditional pocket watch entered the market in 1868 in the form of a “women’s wristlet” developed by Philippe. When Thierry Stern took over as Chairman in 2009, he represented the fourth generation of the family to lead the tradition-rich enterprise.
Patek Philippe’s strict commitment to independent production is evident in the quality of the products, which is never compromised under any circumstances. Famous Users Patek Philippe’s best-known fans include some of the world’s most famous politicians, cultural figures, royals and corporate executives. Kennedyand pioneer scientist Marie Curie. Patek Philippe pocket watch 106 Patek Philippe’s office in Geneva, Switzerland Men Grand Complications, split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar. Often mentioned are baseball star Joe DiMaggio, jazz great Duke Ellington, the father of Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse, Walt Disney, President John F. Every last detail is designed and approved by a small circle of some of the most competent professionals in the world of watches, working at the company’s headquarters. Patek Philippe employs a couple of hundred top artisans, who in addition to general competence have highly specific areas of specialisation. Patek Philippe is still the oldest independent family business in the international watchmaking capital of Geneva. Many publicity-shy collectors have significant collections of Patek Philippe watches. Many other manufacturers nowadays order parts from Switzerland but assemble their watches elsewhere. This status allows the company to make autonomous decisions to help it on its mission of continuously manufacturing the world’s best, most reliable, highest-quality, most durable and best-reputed watches
Fi n e L i f e s t y l e 107 Timeline 1601 1839 1844 1845 1851 1932 1933 2009 The Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva is established Antoni Patek and François Czapek start manufacturing watches in Geneva Patek meats Jean-Adrien Philippe, a highly skilled watchmaking innovator, in Paris Czapek leaves the joint venture started with Patek Philippe joins forces with Patek Charles and Jean Stern buy Patek Philippe Henry Graves, banker, buys the famous “Supercomplication”, which will be auctioned for USD 11 million in 1999 Thierry Stern, representing the fourth generation of Sterns at the helm of the company, takes over as CEO
> Patek Philippe’s strict commitment to independent production is evident in the quality of the products, which is never compromised under any circumstances.. Owners of the company’s watches become part of the exclusive Patek Philippe family, whose members have in common their attachment to a luxury timekeeper. The label produces both mechanical and quartz watches, at a total annual volume of around thirty to forty thousand. This is why every watch bearing the Patek Philippe name is a unique combination of new and old: an exceptional measure of watchmaking tradition paired with the latest technology. With the use of this material, the company has wanted to create parts with even more reliability and precision for watches already known for their superb accuracy. The label produces both mechanical and quartz watches, at a total annual volume of around thirty to forty thousand. The quantities vary somewhat depending on the complexity of the items produced. Should a Patek Philippe ever surprise you by appearing to tell the wrong time, cross-check with several sources. Even though it only really attracts attention among proper watch connoisseurs, its owners relish the feeling caused by the Swiss artefact. 108 Patek Philippe’s designs of men’s and women’s watches are guided by strong ties to history coupled with an unprejudiced vision of the present. Ever Greater Accuracy The latest innovations in Patek Philippe watches are silicon parts developed over several years at the manufacturer’s research centre. The manufacturer lists a number of values that every Patek Philippe watch represents, including independence, tradition, innovation, quality and fine workmanship, rarity, aesthetics and emotion. The first watches using silicon technology were made in 2005. Usually the superb Swiss chronograph will be proven right
: +33 (0)3 26 52 16 30 • Fax : +33 (0)3 26 52 20 13 info@champagne-veuve-fourny.com • www.champagne-veuve-fourny.com L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération.. une Famille, un Clos, un Premier Cru Une trilogie fondée sur les liens familiaux et la passion d'un terroir 5, rue du Mesnil • 51130 Vertus Tél
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Famous names such as Picasso, Toulouse Lautrec and Alfred Hitchcock present the history of Champagne imaginatively, from the first bubbles in the 17th century to today. The themes cover a range of artistic disciplines and periods: painting, decorative arts, design, architecture, cinema, advertising and publicity, literature, music, glass and accessories. Text: Amanda Regan Photos: Musée des Beaux Arts de Reims As Champagne bottles are opened all over the world, 370 works of art depicting champagne have been assembled from 85 international private and public lenders at an exhibition about Champagne, in Champagne. A tour in four parts through history and styles exposes changes in fashion regarding how to serve, drink and enjoy Champagne. Art de vivre, cultural myths and legends show how Champagne developed in the arts through promotional appropriation, via the surreal, abstract and contemporary movements. The exhibition Les Arts de l’effervescence – Champagne! at Musée des Beaux Arts de Reims, 14 December 2012 – 16 May 2013 Fi n e G a l l e r y Champagne in Art 111. This premier exhibition “examines the relationship of the arts with celebration, luxury and publicity”
Furthermore, crystal glassware, designed for the sole purpose of drinking Champagne, and the architecture on the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay and La Butte Saint Niçaise in Reims all reflected aristocracy. In the 1730s, it was portrayed as a luxury in painting commissioned by Louis VX and carried out by Jean-François de Troy, as well as in a Nicolas Lancret painting for the Château of Versailles. Artists and writers found new inspiration in the fizz of Champagne. “Les Dixeuses” cabaret singers became the models for Mucha posters, creating advertising and publicity for Champagne.. Part 1 Champagne and Aristocracy: From Reality to Myth 112 Prestigious Champagne clients developed as aristocratic nobility married into Champagne families – from the Regent period all the way through to the era of Marie Antoinette at the end of the seventeenth century. The exhibition identifies the second Empire with images of entertainment, frivoloity, vanity and seduction, depicting festive and fashionable restaurants, cafés, concerts and cabarets in Paris. Part 2 Ivresse La Fête Champagne was the nineteenth century symbol of party and joy, effervescence and decadence. Champagne became rare and expensive – a symbol of an aristocratic life reserved for the elite
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Champagne houses sought graphic brand images through artists like Toulouse Lautrec, Pierre Bonnard and Mucha, and embraced the curves of Art Nouveau as an aesthetic match with bubbles. Champagne Mercier made the first cinematic publicity in 1895 with the Lumiere brothers’ Vie d’une bouteille de Champagne depuis la grape jusqu’a la coupe (The Life of a Champagne Bottle from Grapes to Glass). From 1914–1920 access to Champagne was democratised through reproductions. The energy of bubbles were captured by photography and painted by Severini in1911 during the Italian Futurist movement. Until then, interest was only in the display of bubbles depicted in 18th and 19th century paintings, and not in a brand. In 1890 Henri Vasnier, Director Champagne of Pommery, commissioned Emile Galle to create a dining room in Reims with poetic symbols of grapevines. Champagne stars in Charlie Chaplin’s A Night Out film of 1915, and Alfred Hitchcock’s first film in 1928 was called Champagne. Fi n e G a l l e r y 115 Part 3 Art Nouveau and Art Deco Modernity arrived at the end of the nineteenth century. Commercial and industrial production of Champagne was shown in spectacular fashion at the World Fairs in 1889, 1900, 1925 and 1937. After 1918, Reims was restored during the Art Deco era with symbolic designs in the Cathedrals and the Town Hall.
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Picasso made a series of prints in 1933 depicting Bacchus and Minotaures drinking Champagne. 1920s symbols were synonymous with luxury, parties and decadence. FINE. 120 Part 4 Avant Garde 20th Century Champagne Destabilized by wars and chaos, art became a metaphor of resurrection for artists. From 1945, Surrealist and Abstract artists incarnated Champagne as a symbol of peace, rebirth and optimism. Turning to humour for the millennium, Marteen Baas deconstructs the heritage of Champagne with a table setting of melting Murano glass and bottles reminiscent of Dali
an invitation to wine and food matches, to the meeting of flavours and aromas. Secret de Grands Chefs Each bottle of GOSSET Champagne is a source of inspiration... The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584 www.champagne-gosset.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE_GOSSET GRV_14022013.indd 1 15/02/13 12:44
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