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Page 16 177 years of Perrier-Jouët vintages
Page 32
Tom Stevenson
10
Page 38
Ad man Eugène Mercier
Page 46
The Best Non-Vintage Champagnes
Page 68
The Blending puzzle
Feet above the sea. Seeing beyond.
a Ferretti brand. Forward thinking. Oceans ahead of the rest.
Ferretti yacht owners are forward facing
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19
Fi n e G a l l e r y
20
Vinous, with nice palate weight and linear fresh persistance. Not hugely complex, but very concentrated and impressively powerful. Palate more linear, just the tiniest refreshment left. Some tiny beads left. 1911 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015)
98p
1911
Deep golden colour with a peach hue. Lots of life left here.
21
Fi n e G a l l e r y. Ripe and sweet fruit. Even a light warmth from alcohol left detectable. Pure, gently toasted, dried fruit nose
The balance is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever seen in a wine.
22
99p. Intense and concentrated with just enough sparkle to lift it up. Wonderful weight and depth. 1928
1928 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015)
Deep golden colour and a gentle mousse. Long, seamless and astonishingly youthful with no signs of oxidation. Mouth-watering citric and even floral fruit depth. Pure and clean nose, very fresh with dried fruit, honey, gentle coffee and aromatic wood, perfumy tones. Liquid silk with gentle coffee, aromatic wood and perfumuy tones
23
Fi n e G a l l e r y
24
1959 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015)
94p
Deep orange-hued colour. Citric acidity lines the finish.. Wide and round. Fine fresh bead remaining. Not as expressive as many before. Toasty soft coffee nose. Less on the fruity side and more woody and nutty. Age shows in the back palate. Some drying tobacco notes
25
Fi n e G a l l e r y
Toasty and developed, yet retains it fruity and fresh palate, while keeping the smooth, perfectly integrated mousse. 1985 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015)
Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. Full, rich and round with complexity and freshness. Rich, toasty nose, deep red fruit, brioche, coffee, and spiciness. Overt, energetic and charming, lots of layers. Perfect now, but will keep.
26
1985
97p
27
Fi n e G a l l e r y
Very youthful still and will gain in charm over time. Nice toasty, nutty, coffee shop and pastry under notes with lemony complexity. Not as expressive on the palate, more on the restrained side with an attractive, gunflint minerality taking over at the end. The ripe, fruity and sensuous nose has fine coffee and toasted nuances beyond fresh apple and cream. Soft ripe apple and patisserie nose. Full, rich and round with complexity and freshness. 1998 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 92p
MGM (2009/2018)
Perrier-Jouët vintages
177 years of
Liquid History Book
1990 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2020) 93p Developing, deep lemony colour. Short and dry finish. Perfect now, but will keep.
Pale youthful colour. Overt, energetic and charming, lots of layers. 28
Tasting
2002 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque (2009/2025) 92p Pale, delicate, lemony colour. Subtle, soft white fruit and floral nose. Wonderful balance of fresh lemony fruit and developed smoothness. A lovely elegant vintage for mid-term consumption. Elegant, high acidity on the palate, but a wonderful maturing creaminess of aroma and texture. Linear, pure and fresh on the balance. Starting to show its full character. A fragrant young stone fruit and floral nose. More restrained and feminine on the nose than the richer 1985. Starting to drink wonderfully.
1996 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2025) 94p
Developing medium-deep colour. Some delicate lactic complexity over the red apple and grapefruit nose. Wide and rounded with enough acidity to hold the rich fruit together. Long, soft and concentrated. Tightly-knit and long with a longer life ahead than the 1985.
1995 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque (2009/2018) 93p Rich, developing lemony colour. Mid weight palate with creamy mousse. Fine mousse and more width. Delicate and feminine on the palate with hidden intensity and a great, balanced freshness. Lovely lemony length.
1982 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2020) 95p
Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. Harmonious and smooth on the nose. Toasty and minerally nose with gunpowder, hazelnuts and chalky notes. 1985 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015) 97p
Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. Rich, toasty nose, deep red fruit, brioche, coffee and spiciness. Long, linear and lively.. Still highly reductive in style. Powerful and rich on the palate. Toasty and developed, yet retains its fruity and fresh palate, while keeping the smooth, perfectly integrated mousse. Smooth and ripe but lacks the backbone or power of the greatest vintages. Wonderful for mid-term consumption and delicious already today.
1979 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 96p Wonderful, rich roasted coffee and ripe fruit
Plump mid palate, rich and velvety. Slight mushroomy note. Lots of life left here. Glue-like volatility and saltiness. Some drying tobacco notes. Wonderfully full and sweet fruity finish. Toasty, soft ripe fruit nose, crème brûlée, pastry and candied fruit. Gentle coffee and aromatic wood, perfumy tones. Pungent. Complex, with woody cognac notes in the finish. 1846 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 82p Deep orange colour. Palate more linear, just the tiniest refreshment left. Long taste. Rich and wide with a firming spine. Bright apricot fruit, honey and flower. Mouth-watering citric and even floral fruit depth. 1959 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 94p Deep orange-hued colour. Fresh, energetic and pure, will keep. Minuscule beads left. Not hugely complex, but very concentrated and impressively powerful. Higher alcohol. Toasty soft coffee nose. Persistent, with no bubbles left but enough fresh spine to keep it alive. Smooth rounded red fruit and coffee nose. Fine energetic mousse. Some tiny beads left. Liquid silk. 1874 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 93p Deep orange colour. Sweet and honeyed, apple marmalade and raisin aromatics. Fresh lively bead. Less on the fruity side and more woody and nutty. Highly mushroomy, oxidised nose. Sweet, with a lot of cognac clearly added. Very different in style to what we expect of champagne today. Wonderful weight and depth. Vinous, with nice palate weight and linear fresh persistance. Toasty smooth but oxidising nose. Age shows in the back palate. Long and concentrated burnt sugar and orange marmalade taste. Mouth-filling, slightly sweet, weighty but fresh. 1858 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 87p Deep golden-orange colour. Nice integration and completeness.
1911 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) 98p Deep golden colour with a peach hue. Liquor-like profile. Even a light warmth from alcohol left detectable. Caramel, vanilla and nutty nose. A lot of sweetness. Honey and dried fruit complexity. Not impressive but fine-tuned and tightly-knit palate. Long, seamless and astonishingly youthful, with no signs of oxidation. No bubbles left, but otherwise in good condition. Not as expressive as many before. Complex and vinous with a fine mousse left. Fine fresh bead remaining. Not a perfect bottle.
1964 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015) 97p Very deep orange-gold colour. Pungent volatility. Seems immortal. Mature, rich and slightly oxidised, toasted bread autolytic nose. Pure, gently toasted, dried fruit nose. This old bottle has miraculously resisted the effects of time and there are no signs it will deteriorate quickly.
29
1971 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/now) 90p
Not a perfect cork. Some mousse left but fruit is oxidised on the palate, some old mushroomy notes. 1906 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/now) 94p Deep, orange hued golden colour. Tar and spiciness with a high alcohol feel. Intense and concentrated, with just enough sparkle to lift it up. Citric acidity lines the finish. Not very powerful but superbly integrated and fine-tuned. Butter and cream. Harmonious and balanced. Elegant, feminine and fine. Syrupy, concentrated and sweet. Strong orange liquour and mushroom nose. 1975 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 94p
Deep golden colour. Pure and clean nose, very fresh with dried fruit and honey alongside. Deep golden colour with orange hints. Wide and round. Toasted, smooth fudge and vanilla nose with spicy touches. Mineral complexity and creamy, broad mouthfeel. Pleasant, but not very complex. 1952 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 95p Developed, orange-hued medium-deep colour. 1825 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 90p Deep orange colour. The balance is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever experienced in a wine.. Stylish, clear toast and apricot nose. Some sweet vanilla and confectionary on the nose. Peaking now but will keep.
Fi n e G a l l e r y
1928 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) 99p Deep golden colour and a gentle mousse. Smooth, coffee bean, lemon and floral nose. Vinous and wide. Ripe and sweet fruit. Smooth, round, roasted coffee nose. Long and soft. Turned toasty but held impressively well in the glass. No bubbles. Completely ready now, with developed aromatics and fruit that is starting to fade. Starting to show its age in the slightly drying finish. 1976 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 91p Deep golden colour. Woody notes and virtually no fruit left. Complete, fresh and long. Smooth, ripe, pineapple and vanilla toasty nose. First vintage of Belle Epoque. Powerful and wide, smooth and velvety. 1978 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/now) 93p Developing orange-hued colour. 1955 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2020) 97p Youthful, deep lemon-gold colour
32
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38
To gain the awareness of the masses, he promptly developed a highly creative advertising strategy with a series of stunning events, which are even today a hundred years later matchless.
Drinking History. He was a man with amazing energy and a vision for out of the ordinary ideas. He was only twenty years of age when his ambition to bring high-quality champagne from high society down to everyday folk began. 39
TEXT: PEKKA NUIKKI
Eugène Mercier, founder of the lively Mercier Champagne House, was well ahead of his time
The nonvintage category is fascinating as it is a balance between brand images and the actual gustatory qualities of the wine.
44
Text: Essi Avellan MW /Juha Lihtonen / Pekka Nuikki s llan W /Juh n en ek e uik ikki
Therefore, tasting them blind is a great exercise that allows us to get rid of old brand prejudices and to find which champagne really tastes best in your mouth. FINE blind tasted through the current non-vintage offering and here is our up-to-date assessment of what you can buy on the market.. You can go to a restaurant anywhere in the world and order the familiar Yellow Label of Veuve Clicquot. In good and in bad, champagne is the most branded wine in the world. It will be consistent in quality and style, as well as in the brand message it sends. Despite consistency year in and out being the goal, there are rising stars and evident disappointments
Each of us gave points to the wines, based on their condition today, on a 100-point-scale. It is, however, a matter of taste if one prefers the rosés over the regulars. Then their price premium should not be a problem either.
49
There were a dozen champagnes that stuck out with their personality and quality.
The way we tasted
The FINE editorial team had a challenging but intriguing task of blind tasting over 100 non-vintages. Some of the wines were clearly fresh disgorgements and did, therefore, not show as well as they could have. The verdict
The quality level was fairly uniform, with most of the wines averaging around 85 to 87 points. The rosé category was less consistent and exciting than the regular NVs, with only two wines surpassing 90 points. Many of the grower champagnes ended up slightly disappointingly below 85 points, as their singularity and sometimes slight rusticity lowered the marks. However, taking price quality-ratio into account, there are some great purchases to be had there. There were, however, a dozen champagnes that stuck out with their personality and quality. But such a possible misjudgement is a problem of the NV category if disgorgement dates are not known and the wines sent early onto the markets. An average point was calculated and where our assessments were more than four points apart, the wine was re-tasted and assessed.
Fi n e C h a m pa g n e. Most of them possess a lovely potential for further ageing
Collard-Picard Rosé Brut 2009/2011 .......................................................88p 13. Comte de Dampierre Grande Cuvée Brut 2009/2011 ..........................84p 85. David Léclapart L´Àrtiste Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2010 ..................................................83p 90. Camille Bonville Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 ............................................................................85p 74. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Rosé 2009/2013 ..........................................87p 15. Charles Mignon Brut Premier Cru 2009/2010 .....................................84p 86. Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 ...........................................................................84p 87. Richard Fliniaux Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 ......................................84p 81. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé 2009/2012 ...........................87p 16. A. Frank Bonville Grand Cru Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 ............................................................................85p 70. Alfred Gratien Brut 2009/2013....................................................................85p 68. 4. 8. Charles Lafitte Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011.............................................84p 77. Marguet Pére & Fils Grand Cru Brut Réserve 2009/2010 ..............84p 83. Collard-Picard Cuvée Selection Brut 2009/2010.............................83p
Non-Vintage Rosé Champagnes
1. Chauvet Brut 2009/2010............................................................................85p 76. Deutz Rosé 2009/2012 .......................................................................................86p 19. 65. Mercier Demi-Sec 2009/2011 ...........................................................................85p 67. 2. 9. Pannier Brut Selection 2009/2011 ..............................................................85p 66. Charles Lafitte Rosé Brut 2009/2012.......................................................85p 21. Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial 2009/2011 ..............................................87p 14. Philipponnat Réserve Rosé Brut 2009/2012 ...........................................88p 11. Jacquart Brut Mosaïque 2009/2012 ..........................................................85p 69. Charles de Villenfin Brut 2009/2010 .......................................................85p 73. Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Noir 2009/2010.............................................84p 84. Alfred Gratien Rosé 2009/2012 ...................................................................88p 12. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut 2009/2010 ..........................................84p 88. 5. David Léclapart L´Apôtre a Trépail Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2011....................................................84p 79. Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé 2009/2013 ......................................................84p 25. Charles Mignon Comte de Marne Rosé 2009/2011.............................84p 23. Maxime Blin Carte Blanche Brut 2009/2010 ........................................84p 82. Bollinger Rosé Brut 2009/2013 ...................................................................86p 18. Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Brut 2009/2010 ............................................85p 71. 3. A. Robert Brut 2009/2010 ...............................................................................85p 75. A. André Clouet Brut 2009/2012 ......................................................................84p 78. Chartogne-Taillet Rosé 2009/2013 ............................................................90p Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé 2009/2012 ...................................................90p Boizel Brut Rosé 2009/2013...........................................................................89p Laurent Perrier Rosé Cuvée Brut 2009/2013 ........................................89p Pommery Apanage Rosé 2009/2013 .............................................................89p Henriot Rosé 2009/2013 ...................................................................................89p Mumm Rosé 2009/2011........................................................................................89p Ruinart Brut Rosé 2009/2011 .........................................................................88p Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut Rosé 2009/2014 .....................88p
10. Autréau de Champillon Demi-Sec 2009/2010 ........................................82p 89. 6. Richard & Fils Ay Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru 2009/2010 ................................................................87p 17. Duval Leroy Brut 2009/2011 ..........................................................................84p 80. Duval Leroy Brut Rosé 2009/2011 ...............................................................86p 20. Mercier Demi-Sec Rosé 2009/2010 ..............................................................84p 24. Comte Audoin de Dampierre Demi-Sec 2009/2010 ...............................85p 72. Pannier Rosé Velour 2009/2012 ...................................................................84p
51
Fi n e C h a m pa g n e. J.J. Bonnaire Brut Variance Boisé 2009/2012 ...............................................85p 22. 7
55
Fi n e C h a m pa g n e
Toasty finish, medium-bodied on the palate. Balanced and rich.
Medium-deep lemony colour. Very mineral on the palate lined with bright tropical fruitiness. Smooth, with vanilla and fudge. Soft and creamy toffee nose, butter, brioche and cinnamon. All pieces in place.
C Ca 89p Canard Duchêne Cuvée Leonie
2009/2013 A Ag 88p Agrapart Terroirs 2009/2013
Pa Pale lemony colour. Stylish and long. Cinnamon, apple pie and vanilla nose. Smooth and round rich toffee, red apple and toasty nose. Weighty and wide smooth velvety palate, with nicely integrated mousse. me
Mi Mid-depth lemon-green colour. Rich, sweet roasted nose, with bruised apples and spiciness. Good Sm harmony and integration of smooth mousse.
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut
2009/2015
88p
B Bo Bollinger Special Cuvée
56
2009/2015
89p
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Round, ripe fruit on the wide palate too. an Attractive purity and intensity. Long, stylish and charming.
89p
De Deep developing lemon-gold colour. Clean and no tightly-packed. Fruit-forward soft nose with a nice autolytic toastiness and delicate pure fruit: citrus, melon and tropical fruits. Very dry.
D 88p De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select
2009/2014
De Developing deep yellow colour. Pure with nice freshness and elegance. Nice intensity and focus. Easy to drink, fruit-forward style.
L La 89p Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P
2009/2014
Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Gentle, deliberate oxidation. Mineral complexity with underlying muscle and vinosity. Gentle autolytic presence. Rich, sweet and complex. Nice intensity and purity. Fragrant and charmingly restrained floral nose. Pleasing bru and charming, but lacks the spine of a super premium non-vintage. Good degree of complexity and a long length.
88p
M Mailly Grand Cru Extra Brut
2009/2013
Me Medium-deep, rich toffee nose with nice red fruit touch. High degree of breed and evolution in the nose. Round and rich, toasty burnt sugar, tropical fru fruit nose. Easy to approach and ready to drink.
G Gosset Grande Réserve
2009/2013 A Ay 88p Ayala Zero Dosage Brut Nature 2009/2014
Pa Pale lemon colour. Lemon and green apple. Tight and closed on the palate, but balanced with tro some complexity and elegance.
M Medium-deep lemony colour. Still youthful and restrained on the palate. Long fru and fairly intense.
88p
A Ay Ayala Brut Majeur
2009/2014
M Medium-deep lemony colour. Slim but concentrated, long and crisp. no Tight-packed and linear. Youthful still, with a firm, linear no structure and good ageing capacity.
88p
H Henriot Brut Souverain
2009/2015
De Deep lemon-gold colour. Nicely integrated mousse and good length.
P Pi Piper-Heidsieck Brut
2009/2014
V Vi Vilmart Grand Cellier
2009/2013
88p
88p
De Deep lemony colour. Vegetal lemon and white flower elegant nose. Clean and harmonious. Stylish creamy mousse. Soft, evolving lactic nose. Nicely balanced and complex.
88p
D De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2013
M Medium-deep lemon-green colour. Powerfully fruity palate Hi with coffee, toast and vanilla. Stylish, with fine mousse and wonderful fruit purity.
P Po Pommery Brut Apanage
2009/2014
88p
M 88p Mailly Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs
2009/2014
M Medium-intense lemony colour. Nice rounded body, focused fruit and good length. Rich and smooth, sweet apple and toasty nose. Restrained, intense and dry palate. Gentle, underlying smoky minerality. Nicely toasty and bready, tropical fruit and apple nose. Integrated mousse and a wide, dense mouth-feel. All parts in place, with toa nice ageing potential ahead.
L La 89p Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut
2009/2014 P Po 88p Pommery Brut Royal 2009/2013
Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Mid-weight and lac rounded. g
Me Medium-deep lemon-green colour. Good ageing capacity.
R Ru 89p Ruinart Brut
2009/2013
Me Medium-intense lemony colour. Delicate, smooth toffee nose with lemony nuances. Fresh and linear on the palate with some elegance and intensity but no great complexity or depth. Mineral and tight white flower and smoky nose. ox. Rich, gunflinty and toasty nose. Toasty, harmonious and complex nose. Apples and dust. 90p
C Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte-Anne Brut 2009/2015
Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Toasty, evolving, nutty and lemony nose. Harmonious and stylish bright fruit and gentle toast nose. Smooth nose with a slight wood impact, deliberate oxidation in the form of oxidising apple. Intense and pure, with a powerful linear structure. Good rip concentration and length. Honey and sweet tropical notes. Lots of personality and richness.
89p
Delamotte Brut
2009/2014
H He 88p Henriot Blanc Souverain Pur Chardonnay 2009/2015
Medium-intense lemony colour. Balanced but with a rustic dusty touch. g
Me Medium-deep lemony colour. Wide and round on the palate. Mid-weight, rich palate with good length bri and fresh spine. Smooth, vanilla and cream, ripe tropical fruitiness. Delicate, purist green apple and white fruit nose. Very dry and lean, an crisp acidic body. Good length and harmony.
Pa Pale lemony colour. Tight and very dry palate, linear with nu sweet, pure fruitiness. Restrained and very dry on the palate with autolysis an coming through nicely. Delicate, soft and elegant nose with melon, gentle citric tones, fine-tuned and tight-packed. Crisp, tart, acidic backbone
Foamy palate and a wide and weighty mouth-feel. g
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Medium-sweet taste, with plenty of sweet tropical fruit. Very floral and fragrant nose, clean and fresh. Slightly dusty on the hollow palate. Nice autolytic complexity. Medium-sweet palate. Very vinous but not hugely complex or elegant. Restrained, gentle apple and confectionary no nose. Medium length and M good fruit purity for a demi-sec. Fruity and gentle, rounded. Medium-bodied, wide and round, easy palate which lacks focus, finesse and spine.. Medium-long with smooth effervescence. Fruity and fresh, pear and lime nose. Coarse sized mousse, palate lacking charm. Satisfying on the whole, medium length and fruit intensity.
58
86p
Be Besserat de Bellefon Cu Cuvée des Moines Brut
2009/2011
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Some personality and a nice balance.
Pa Pale greenish-yellow colour. Fruity and fairly clean. Angular and one-dimensional for now, post-disgorgement time required for full charm.
M Medium-deep lemon-gold colour. Medium length and satisfactorily well-integrated bubbles.
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Sweet and delicate white fruit and floral nose. an
85p
Richard Fliniaux Carte Perle Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011
Pale peach-hued lemon colour. Smooth fruit-forward red berry nose, with apple pie and spicy nuances. an Easy to drink.
M Medium-deep peach-hued lemon colour. Distinct personality, with medium length. Medium-dry, smooth balance and cleanliness. Soft apple and lemon nose. Good freshness and well-integrated mousse. Foamy mousse, intense licorice and ripe fruit palate. Tight, light-weight palate, with some pe dusty aromatics. Smooth cream and va vanilla nose, with ripe, clean fruitiness and a touch of elegance. Not very complex and lacks autolytic complexity.
85p
B Bo Bonnaire Brut Tradition
2009/2011
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Lots of personality. Nice gun flint minerality.
Al Alain Thiénot Brut
2009/2013
85p
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Medium fruit intensity and length. Smooth and ripe, nicely toasty, gunpowdery nose. Slightly volatile tobacco and red apple nose, with spicy old oak and dusty nuances. Not perfectly clean. Toasty and nutty autolytic nose, with ripe apple, straw and dust notes. Forward and fruity, with app dry palate. Restrained and gentle melon, pear, vegetal and floral nose. Vegetal notes. Linear and tig tight palate. Delicate, smoky, minerally nose. Medium-dry taste with nice fruit purity, po but lacked of spine or complexity.
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Medium-length. Required post-disgorgement time to blossom.
C Camille Bonville Brut S Se Selection Blanc de Blancs
2009/2011
85p
Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Mouth-filling wine, with good intensity. Open, creamy, lactic white fruit and vanilla nose. Nice brioche and tropical notes. The palate is less intense and nuanced compared Ni to the promising nose. Medium-intense vegetal and no floral palate. Fruit-forward and clean on the palate. Long van and linear though. Dry medium-bodied palate that lacks wi the overt fruit of the nose. p
P Ph 86p Philipponnat Non Dosé Royale Réserve
2009/2012
M Medium-deep lemon-golden colour. Overt, oxidising apple nose, with at touch of oak impact. Apricot and lemon on the pea palate. Fruity and clean though.
C Comte Audoin de Dampierre Demi-Sec
2009/2010
86p
J Ja Jacquart Demi-Sec
2009/2011
85p
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Sweet caramel nose, with some toasty influence. Toasty and fragrant nose. Clean, with sto bright fruit, but lacks layers and the complexity of fine champagne.
J Ja Jacquart Brut Mosaïque
2009/2012
85p
Le Lemony, youthful colour with lively bubbles. Roasted coffee and smooth fudge nose. Nice level of sugar, balanced and not overly sweet for the structure.
J Ja 85p Jacquesson Brut Cuvée No 733
2009/2013
C 85p Charles de Villenfin Brut
2009/2010
Me Medium-deep colour with a peachy hue. Flowers and stone fruits, no autolysis impact. Quite foamy on the palate. Bruised apple and vanilla nose, nuanced with ripe fruits. Very dry and a therefore a bit harsh on the palate. Good ageing capacity.
P Pa 85p Pannier Brut Selection
2009/2011
H 86p Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top
2009/2013
D Deep lemon-yellow colour, energetic foamy mousse. Medium length and good evolution in the glass. Mid-length and very dry. Some vegetal notes take away from the wines elegance. Lean and fruity, nice compact fruitiness. Nice touch of autolytic complexity on the nose, red fruit and nutty hints. Fragrant and sweetly spiced oxidising apple nose. Linear, with medium body weight.
D 85p Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Brut M Mercier Brut 2009/2011
2009/2010
86p
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Well-made and balanced.
A 85p Alfred Gratien Brut
2009/2013
86p
Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial 2009/2011
Medium-deep peach-hued lemon colour. Open and creamy nose with soft apple, pear and vanilla aromas. Long and fresh. Post-disgorgement time will round the fruit and bring out the charm. Fresh, but not very refined or structured.
85p Bonnaire Brut Variance Boisé 2009/2012
Deep lemon colour. Short length and not as nicely fruity as the nose was.
M Mercier Demi-Sec
2009/2011
85p
Mu 86p Mumm Cordon Rouge Demi-Sec
2009/2012
Pa Pale greenish-lemon colour. Pure and fruity but not very complex or evolved. Not a mainstream champagne, not to every taste. P Pi 86p Pierre Gimonnet Brut
2009/2011
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Foamy mousse and mid-length drying finish.
85p
Fr Frank Bonville Grand Cru Brut Se Se Selection Blanc de Blancs
2009/2012
M Medium-deep straw-yellow colour. Pronounced, evolving wet wool, nut and ripe apple, roasted nose. Mid-weight palate, with slightly fru coarse bubbles
Hollow palate Tr and foamy mousse. Long, persistent coffee and fudge palate.
84p Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Noir
2009/2010
Pale straw-yellow colou Soft, delicate, floral chardonnay yellow colour. Lacks finesse and fruit intensity.
C 84p Charles Mignon Brut Premier Cru
2009/2010
85p A. Less interesting on the palate. ox Lacks charm and intensity.
Marguet Pére & Fils 84p Grand Cru Brut Reserve
2009/2010
N 82p Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem´
2009/2010
Pale lemon colour. Lactic on the palate but overly so. Floral and dusty, tobacco and apple nose. Medium-bodied and dry, with some austerity. Medium-intense palate, with good freshness but slightly coarse mousse. Powerful on the palate, with a fairly foamy mousse. Wide and vinous. Not much finesse and a gentle str touch of autolytic complexity. Very toasty, even roasted on the palate, pungent, fino sherry-like yeasty notes. Medium-bodied, fresh and lively, a slightly coarse mousse.
84p A. Rich and fat, creamy, toast, coffee and confectionary nose, with spice and vanilla influences. d Solid basic quality. id qual lity.
Fi n e C h a m pa g n e
84p
Da David Léclapart L´Àrtiste Premier C 84p Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
2009/2010
Deep peach-hued lemon colour. Lactic nose, with yoghurt and honey. Wide and rounded, with enough freshness. Mid-length minerally finish. Complex and vinous, oxidising bruised apple and cinnamon nose. Smooth, restrained nose of ripe apple, lemon and a gentle toasty edge. Rich, with spicy, wood-like impact on the palate too. Fruity, red fruit dominant, straightforward nose, with some volatility. Smooth, with hazelnuts and ripe apples. Tropical and smooth, with pineapple and dusty notes. Slightly hollow, restrained and short.
André Clouet Brut
2009/2012
David Léclapart L´Apôtre a 84p Trépail Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Medium-deep lemon colour. Slightly empty and coarse. Lean, with a very dry mid-length taste. Open white and green fruit, elegant nose, with nice yeasty complexity. Deliberately oxidising red apple, spicy and dusty nose. Evolved, with sweet co fruitiness on the palate. Lacks autolysis, champagne complexity and charm.
Medium-deep lemon colour. Lacks refinement.
84p Maxime Blin Carte Blanche Brut
2009/2010
Deep golden colour. nose. Creamy and refined but not very complex. Lacks intensity and charm.
P Pierre Peters G 82p Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
2009/2011
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Wide, fat palate, with good length, but lacks in finesse and intensity.
C 83p Collard-Picard Cuvée Selection Brut 2009/2011
2009/2010
M Medium-deep orange-hued lemon colour. Overt, smooth red fruit and fudge nose, with some dusty notes. Appears closed on the palate, with the dosage not in full harmony with the body. Long and linear.. Pungent, highly dry aftertaste, fino sherry-like yeasty effect. Smooth, rounded and rustic vanilla, wax, flower and red apple nose. Bright fruity palate that is not very long but in accordance with the nose. Toasty and nutty, evolving citric fruit aroma. 85p A. Some fresh, yeasty impact. Open but quite singular, lacking great complexity.
Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Medium-bodied and fresh, though.
D Deep lemon-gold bright colour. Some aggression in the mousse. High acidity on the palate, wide but not very concentrated. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut
2009/2010
Pale lemon green colour. Quite atypical as a style but has a lot of personality. Q
Deep lemon-gold colour. Long.
M Medium-deep yellow colour. Orange peel aromatics and a citric feel of acidity. Austere, lacking champagne charm.
Pa Pale lemon-yellow colour. Smoky and minerally straw and lemon nose. Herbaceous and slightly dusty. Vegetal and lean palate, with medium bodyweight. Fruit-forward with red berries, wax and honey. Disappointingly short finish.
84p Richard Fliniaux Blanc de Blancs
2009/2010
N Nicolas Feuillatte B 83p Brut Réserve Particulière
2009/2010
Pale lemon colour. Powerful, smoky and minerality that is lacking autolytic richness. Fruity and fresh but some earthy rusticity takes away from its elegance.
84p Charles Lafitte Cuvée Speciale
2009/2011 Be Besserat de Bellefon C 84p Cuvée des Moines Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010
Pal Pale lemon-green colour. Tart acidity do and a hollow feel to the seemingly rich fruit. Quite hollow mouth-feel, lacking intensity and elegance. Some dusty notes that are accentuated on the an palate. Robert Brut
2009/2010
C 84p Comte de Dampierre Grande Cuvée Brut 2009/2011
M Medium-deep lemon colour. Divides opinions.
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J Jo 83p José Michel Pinot Meunier
2009/2010
84p Duval Leroy Brut 2009/2011
Mid-depth lemon colour. Toasty and slightly vegetal nose, with oxidative, spicy aromatics. Chauvet Brut
2009/2010
Medium-deep lemon colour. Citric and floral nose, with gentle brioche layers. Yeasty notes. Lactic, creamy nose, with clean fruitiness an and oxidising apple. Slightly rustic nose of straw, marzipan, doughnuts and confectionary. Medium length with a nice fruity finish.
D Deep lemon-yellow colour. He Refreshing and simple
Sweet, slightly unfresh carbonic and rubbery nose. Powerful and rich, smoky nose. Pungent and smoky primary nose. Good structure and vinosity. Nice, sweet cherry fruit. Elegant, delicate and charming. Very dry, but clean and fresh. Restrained and lean on the palate. A bit ethereal, even lea chemical.
88p
P Philipponnat Réserve Rosé Brut
2009/2012
M Medium-deep salmon colour. Medium-length. Nicely powerful and wide palate. Medium-long, ch with a mouth-drying finish.
D 86p Deutz Rosé
2009/2012
Pa Pale onion-skin salmon-red colour. Red berries and smoke. Fails to wholly impress, M as it lacks depth and intensity. Delicate, evolving nose where the fruit is not very prominent. Rich, spicy nuanced red fruit and dried f fru fruit nose, with some autolytic complexity. Pungent, smoky, tobacco and cherry liquor nose. Soapy, floral and fresh berry nose. Pu
86p
B Bollinger Rosé Brut
2009/2013
N 82p Nicolas Feuillatte Rosé Brut
2009/2010
D De Delicate, bright red fruit, spicy and leathery. Fruity palate, with a nice grip. Lacking charm and intensity.. Vanilla and spiciness. Long and stylish.
84p
M Mercier Demi-Sec Rosé
2009/2010
87p
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Rosé
Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. Nice complexity. Straightforward, lacking layers and finesse. Should develop wonderfully with time.
D Du 86p Duval Leroy Brut Rosé
2009/2011
Pal Pale salmon colour. Sm
P Pa 84p Pannier Rosé Velour 2009/2012
2009/2012
J Jo Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé
87p
De Deep cherry-pink colour. Richard & Fils Ay C Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru
2009/2010
P Pa Pale salmon colour. Not very complex fr fru or elegant though.
A 82p André Clouet Brut Rosé
2009/2012
Pa Pale salmon colour. Has a good degree of complexity and a fine pa pa balance.
M Medium-deep orange-hued colour. Firm, linear and long. Fragrant red fruit, confectionary, cherry and strawberry nose. Clean and soft, but not very complex. Delicate, ethereal, red fruit floral nose. Nice fruit, long and refreshing, with firm muscle and spine. Linear, but a bit tart on the palate. Very sweet on the palate. Foamy and short on the palate. Restrained, compared to the overt nose. Dark fruit, such as cassis, on the nose, no autolytic influence. Harmonious and balanced. Modest and hollow on the palate with residual sweetness and some dusty notes in the finish.
Pa Pa Pale onion-skin colour. an Opens up nicely in the glass. Seductive balance of power and charm.
A 88p Alfred Gratien Rosé
2009/2012 C Charles Mignon Comte de Marne Rosé 2009/2011
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Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. Slightly coarse mousse. Weak stone fruit and floral nose. Lactic toffee and confectionary nose. Muscular Pinot-palate.
Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. ho
M Medium-deep cherry-red colour. Nice un underlying strength, Pinot fruit coming from the back. Restrained and closed, yet compact on the palate too. Flat and spineless on the palate. Str
87p
J. Pungent yeasty nose, with smoky, toffee minerality. Wide and muscular on the palate too, lacking some intensity but is balanced, clean and easy to approach.
M Mercier Brut Rosé
2009/2010
83p
De Deep bright cherry-red colour. Pungent on the palate. One-dimensional and Re a bit coarse. Elegant, with great fruit purity. A solid i NV rosé that has a nice balance of fruit and tertiary components.
81p
Comte Audoin de Dampierre Brut Rosé 2009/2010
Medium-deep peachy colour. Smoky, drying finish. Aged and classic. Pronounced on the palate, wide and structured. Nicely gastronomic in style and should evolve well with bottle maturation.
84p
P Pe Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé
2009/2013
Pa Pale orange-hued colour. Smooth and rich red fruit nose, with leather. Dry, with a nice mouthnu watering acidity. Disappointingly hollow. Unrefined but fruity, with good width. Medium length and slightly coarse mousse. Not much beyond the primary fruit. Re
84p
2009/2011
C 88p Collard-Picard Rosé Brut
De Deep orange-hued colour. Chalky, earthy nose, with tart, fresh berries. Delicate, sophisticated nose, with fine-tuned nuances and a touch of autolytic presence. Nice gently autolytic nose, with creaminess and red fruit. Powerful and round, with red fruit and spices. 88p
B Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut Rosé 2009/2014
Ve Very pale onion skin colour. Pronounced cherry and spice. Clean and reserved.
C Ch 85p Charles Lafitte Rosé Brut
2009/2012
Ver Very pale onion-skin colour. Delicious, mouth-watering acidity and a light-weight, str energetic palate. Ni Ni
J Ja Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Rosé
2009/2010
83p
M Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial
2009/2011
87p
Pa Pale salmon colour. J.J. p
2009/2013
Medium-deep cherry-red colour
Not to be sarcastic, but are they even displaying these attributes despite them being darn good drinks. As I travel extensively and spend a good amount of time in the air, it gives me plenty of opportunities to drink non-vintage champagne. I have had it in a plane several times over the last few months and I consider it to be a very elegant and stylish NV champagne, with all the parts in the right place, lusciously creamy and refreshing throughout the meal. Travelling with Non-Vintage Champagne
Andreas Larsson
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While nerds like myself spend hard-earned money on vintages, rarities and the odd bottle of prestige cuvée, the standard bottlings are by far the most important for the champagne houses. It showed a nice structure, good fruit and it gave a nice impression of maturity. Even if the worst and most unexpected turbulence sets in, I have the good old Champagne Charlie. I have been surprised on numerous occasions by how well it fares in blind tastings. I think it is quite rare to sit down with your wine geek friends and really analyse the heart, soul, complexity and terroir of a standard cuvée. The Monopole is not bad at all and it really enhanced my recent ParisStockholm trip. The Royal Reserve was easy to enjoy both before, after and especially with, the beef and noodles à la Chinoise. Not being spoilt enough to travel in first class where Krug and Dom Pérignon are poured in copious quantities, I, however, do get to frequently spend time in the business class cabin and lounges. This particular champagne always manages to shine. After all, it has over the years been one of the leading and most reliable champagnes. The same goes for Philipponnat Royal Reserve, which gave me hope and comfort on a long flight back from Asia, when I was both exhausted and jetlagged at the same time. But I must confess that the one I prefer is the Charles. When I see it onboard, I know that I am in good hands. It works perfectly in the aeroplane. As we were approaching Europe and the flight came to an end, I started to feel better and I give full credit to the champagne.
Then there are the plethora of Heidsiecks that one frequently encounters the Piper is nice and reliable, and easy to like. Well, I suppose both the producer and a lot of consumers alike put this one step above the other standard cuvées. To me, this is the place it deserves. When you are on the road and expect a no-frills experience, this is exactly when a standard cuvée comes into its own.
When being forced to spend 14 hours in an aeroplane, a glass of Deutz Brut Classic tastes marvellous. What about Bollinger then
Finally, I have been stocking some serious quantities of Laurent-Perrier half bottles in the fridge back home, simply because I found these handy two packs convenient at the airport shop. Last time, as I popped one open to accompany my sushi, I realised that this it is a most pleasant champagne, with a quite profound structure, nice autumn fruit, well balanced dosage and a long zesty finish;
another one of those brands that I have just missed. Apart from flying, there have been a few recent occasions where I was offered some standard cuvées and a true classic is the stylish Pol Roger, which is poured as the house champagne at the beautiful Grand Hotel in Stockholm. While I go on my champagne-induced habit of travelling, I dream that the airlines will one day start investing in proper champagne glasses or perhaps I should start packing glasses to go.
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Fi n e L a r s s o n. too, as I found out when I was treated to it onboard. I dare to say that I managed to imbibe a few glasses over the journey... This is really a complex champagne of the highest rank broad, bold and assertive, with as much elegance as power. It went deliciously, from the nuts to the canapés, to the meal and the three movies. Together with a shrimp sandwich on a sunny, wintery day, it was perfect toasted, savoury and delicious and really easy to have a few glasses more. The Roederer has been a true favourite of mine for years and it still is creamy and vibrant, with a nice freshness and a good dose of complexity. I also spend a lot of time in Bordeaux and 90 per cent of what I drink there is, well, red Bordeaux.
After a week of intensive tasting and a diet consisting of côte de boeuf, duck, lamb and côte de boeuf again, it was a relief to enjoy a risotto with prawns and a bottle of Roederer Brut Premier at Bistro Les 5 the other day. Also, they keep my girlfriend away from the most precious bottles while I am travelling..
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DE VISU-REIMS
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Since then, the hotel and its bar have become my home abroad.
Fi n e E x p e r i e n c e. When I mentioned this deficit to a local during a visit in 2005, I was pointed to the first and only champagne bar in town, the bar at Hôtel de la Paix. My Home
Abroad
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Hôtel de la Paix
Text: Essi Avellan MW / Photo: Pekka Nuikki
One would expect that Reims, the champagne capital, would be bursting with champagne bars, but that, surprisingly, is not the case. At the time it was still brand new, having only recently been launched, and it appealed to me at first sight
Silky and soft, ripe sweetness at the finish, however, quite a powerful and meaty wine.
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She is elegant, refined, and stunningly beautiful. 114
When you think you have it all, along comes a Princess, and she certainly creates a dream for those who are graced with her presence. Her form is sleek, cool and fluid and she makes a majestic statement, which creates desire and passion to be able to say...."I have a Princess".
Text: Thomas Barbieri
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Underlying the luxurious and elegant looks of a Princess are pioneering advances in hull design and construction to achieve higher speeds in safety and comfort no matter what the weather conditions.
Fi n e L i f e S t y l e
To distinguish the elite among luxury yachts, the increasing evolution of "small" super yachts has been coined Mega Yacht and Giga Yacht. Optional seating arrangements are available. Every detail onboard has been carefully studied, assessed and analysed for sociable and comfortable surroundings. Princess stimulates both heart and mind to desire ownership... For example, the galley is positioned forward on the port side, open to both the wheelhouse and its breakfast dinette, creating a discreet yet convivial eating area. With meticulous attention to the finest of details, the fluid blend of contemporary refinement and effortless cruising capability place the Princess 95 M/Y in a class of her own. Perhaps we will eventually encounter a "Me/Y" Bernard or a "G/Y" Arnault in the near future on a Princess, as she continues to grow.. Although the latest Princess 95 M/Y does not qualify as a Mega or Giga yacht, she most certainly packs a punch on the sea and in any marina. The flybridge can also accommodate an optional spa bath and a rigid hardtop. Below deck, the staterooms and twin cabin are in line with the Princess look, uncluttered, elegant, fresh and calm with judicious use of lighting. or even be a distinguished guest onboard.
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submarines, several smaller water sports and entertainment vehicles, and a host of sub and supra security systems. She is 29 meters long, weighs 94 tons, has 2 X 2,400 horsepower, and remarkably travels at speeds of up to 31 knots. The U-shaped seating, broad sunpad and fully equipped bar are standard. Although the sea is vast and big, the Princess 95 provides enormous space, luxury, comfort, and safety for the most selective customers. From the opulent pocket-sprung beds, to the state-of-theart entertainment systems to the private breakfast area in the master stateroom, every need and feature is considered.
The vast flybridge provides a perfect location to unwind onboard and excellent helm position. The standard set-up is a pair of L-shaped sofas butting up to a central coffee table on the port side, giving it a `club-lounge´ look
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Fi n e L i f e S t y l e
www.volvocars.com
Fi n e Po r t u g a l
THE NEW VOLVO S80.
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